My ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen – Regency Costume Talk’ with Display is an interesting, lively, humorous and informative lecture about the design and construction of gowns I have created inspired by the Regency period. A display of beautifully dressed mannequins accompanied my talk. 

Costumes included a blue cotton day dress and a white cotton afternoon dress both of which would be perfect for Jane Austen herself. Plus an ornate lilac silk ball gown embellished with sparkling jewels and a magnificent gold court gown inspired by Empress Josephine Bonaparte. Also on display were items of underwear and accessories. 

My reproduction Regency Underwear consisted of a linen chemise, short stays, corset, pantalettes and a linen cap worn indoors by ladies of a certain age.

The informal blue cotton ‘Morning’ dress was worn by the Regency ladies indoors, it has detachable sleeves which can be removed when a short sleeve is required.

I also created a more expensive and more elaborate ‘Afternoon, Walking or Promenade dress worn for social occasions. This consisted of a fashionable Spencer Jacket, a chemisette and a white cotton afternoon dress worn with a Regency bonnet. A short tutorial on how to make you own regency bonnet was also included.

The white Afternoon dress would be fine for a country ball however something more sumptuous would be required for a Grand Soiree or ball so I designed a fine lilac silk evening dress. It was worn with a stunning turban and included a pretty evening reticule.

My final costume consisted of rich gold dress worn under a dazzling robe inspired by a court costume worn by Empress Josephine wife of Napoleon Bonaparte.

My son James made an appearance dressed as Mr Darcy and assisted me during my talk.

The Random Stitcher’s of Cleveland are a lovely group of ladies and is was a pleasure to present my talk to them. One of the ladies stated that she “loved the way in which I discussed the construction of my costumes and relevance of facts of day to day living linked to the history of the economics of the regency period”. The ladies were also particularly interested in my reproduction of the first pair of knickers ever worn in 1789, which had totally separate legs and were not joined together at all!

The ladies said they really enjoyed my talk and had a fabulous afternoon! I am looking forward to presenting another talk for them in the future.

If you have enjoyed reading this post I would love you to leave me a comment – thank you

On Thursday 4 April 2024 we presented our Tudor Talk with costume display for the University of the Third Age in Washington Tyne and Wear.

The University of the Third Age (U3A) is an international movement whose aims are the education and stimulation of mainly retired members of the community — those in their third ‘age’ of life.. There is no universally accepted model for the U3A – apprently its original conception was in France. Over 150 members of the U3a joined us for my popular talk.

We presented a number of my costumes including Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth I and also a personal appearance of King Henry VIII in full regalia.

I  included a mannequin dressed as Mary Queen of Scots wearing a gown inspired by clothing worn by her for her execution at Fothergay Castle in 1587. I also created Mary’s gold rosary with cross which is currently on display at Jedburgh in the Queens House. As the U3a recently visited this 16th century tower house they were well acquainted with items of Mary Queen of Scots mentioned during my talk!

My mannequin wearing reproduction Tudor Underwear was important to show what “went on underneath the clothes” to give the correct body shape for period clothing. My items included a 16th century corset,chemise, bum roll and farthingale.

After my talk I included a question and answer session and received a number of interesting questions and my answers which I am happy to share  :-

What are the Washing Instructions for Tudor Costumes?

Linen and cotton used for underwear can be washed however the outer garments such as the silk gowns and doublets embroidered and decorated with jewels or expensive trimmings cannot be washed at all as they would be ruined. The chemise or shirt worn next to the skin would save the outer garments as they absorbed persperation and other body oils and are regularly washed.

How long does it take me to dress King Henry VIII for the talk?

Apprently it took two hours for servants to dress King Henry VIII as there are numerous small puffs of fabric from his shirt to be pulled through the slashing on his gold damask padded doublet.  To dress my  Henry VIII probably about 15 – 20 minutes as the silk puffs are sewn in to save time as the costume was used for Fashion Shows!

Cost in the 16th Century for a Doublet – equivalent value now

Fabrics and clothes for royalty were very expensive in the 16th Century  – no mass production or cheap machine made fabrics.  The King’s gold doublet embroidered and embellished with expensive jewels and it would cost in the 16th Century the equivalent of a small Tudor house.

I chatted to members afterwards who had seen my period fashions shows presented at Belsay Hall during a Bank Holiday weekend and one remembered an apperance by my late husband as the older King Henry VIII at Crook Hall in Durham a number of years ago!

I  received interest from a number of members about my other talks – including my Regency talk which includes an apperance by Mr Darcy!

We enjoyed presenting our talk and the members of the U3a who joined us enjoyed it too. A number of the U3a members told me it was the best talk they had ever had!

We presented our Regency Costume Talk for the E.Y.E.S – East Yorkshire Embroidery Society in Cottingham recently. It was the second time we have visited the group – having previously presented our Tudor Talk. It went very well – over 90 ladies attended, they made us very welcome, and we certainly enjoyed presenting it. We were asked some interesting questions after the talk so I though you might like to read some of my replies  –

Gloves

One of the ladies asked to hear more about gloves worn during the regency period. I had mentioned that over the elbow gloves became popular around the time of Napoleon.  Long gloves were always worn with evening dresses and for formal occasions. They were usually white and could be made of silk, cotton or even soft kidskin, they were tied, pinned or had garters to keep them up. Kate Winslet wore long gloves in the film Sense and Sensibility. Middle Class and Upper-class ladies always wore glove when they went out.  When eating in company they also wore gloves for dining and placed their gloves neatly on their laps while sitting at the table – replacing their gloves when they had finished the meal.  They also wore mittens (gloves without fingers) when sewing as it is impossible to sew properly when wearing gloves. The mittens would keep their hands warmer indoors when houses were cold.

Mr Darcy

I was asked by the ladies if I had designed and created the costume worn by my son Jamie who was dressed as Mr Darcy. My late husband Mick had appeared as Mr Bennett when I first presented my talk so I had designed him a Regency gentleman’s outfit.   A tailcoat, shirt, waistcoat, cravat and flap front breeches worn with long boots.  I have altered the tailcoat and waistcoat to fit Jamie and designed him a new linen shirt, cravat and trousers. One of the ladies even asked him to take off his shirt off a la Colin Firth!

Pink Spencer Jacket

I included my new pink spencer jacket in my costume display and one of the group asked me to tell her about more about it. I mentioned I had watched the latest version of Emma starring Anya Taylor-Joy in the titular role. I loved the beautiful costumes in the production and decided to recreate my favourite item of clothing worn in the film.  I chose the Pink Spencer worn by Emma for the wedding of her friend. It was exquisite with it’s rouleau trimming and pretty sleeves.  I knew would be not an easy to recreate it but was dtermined. The film version was created in fine silk but as I preferred my version to be warmer I recreated it in fine pink wool with extensive trimming. I admitted it was a very tricky job especially the trimming on the front but enjoyed the challenge. The Designer who created the actual jacket for the film contacted me and told me I had made an excellent reproduction!

Regency Ladies Keeping Warm

I was also asked – how do regency ladies keep warm during the regency Period

I had mentioned in my talk that during the Regency, light muslin dresses were very popular for afternoon dress. In the first few years of the 19th century, so many young women died after catching a chill or pneumonia due to wearing these light gowns in the winter that it was called “the muslin disease”!

To avoid catching pneumonia and keeping warm ladies wore layered clothing made of wool, flannel, or fur. Typical winter outerwear included a pelisse – a longer version of the Spencer which could be lined in fur and made of velvet or warm wool. Hooded capes, scarves, cloaks, shawls, scarves, muffs, gloves and, mittens, also thick socks, stockings, long wraps, caps, hats, and earmuffs were worn. Furs worn included beaver, fox, bear, and marten were common. Seal skin coats prevented wind and rain from penetrating to the skin, and swans down muffs kept delicate hands warm and protected.

The Head of Costume and Fashion Design at Hull was present – I met her after my talk – I am very pleased to say she said she was very impressed with my costume event.  She said my outfits were beautifully made and the content of my lecture full of interesting facts, information and humour and not just dressmaking.

I am happy to say that The East Yorkshire Embroidery Society have booked us for a future event. I will present my new talk – ‘Marie Antoinette and what she wore to the Revolution’ in the near future.

We really enjoyed presenting the event and chatting to members of the society afterwards – we had a great afternoon!

I recently visited Castle Howard (June 2022) and they currently have a wonderful exhibition of film costumes so I thought I would share photographs of the costumes and the information included in the exhibition. The picture above is still from the TV series the ‘Buccaneers’ in 1995 taken outside beautiful Castle Howard.

Evening Dress – similar to dress worn in Lady L 

The dress sadly appears to have been lost to time, but this dress is similar in style to the one worn by Sophia Loren in the film. It is characteristic of evening dress worn in the 1900’s, is sumptuous.

Light coloured fabric, with a tightly corseted, with a tightly corseted narrow waist an short bust sleeves to create a top heavy silhouette.

Robe a Anglaise worn in Barry Lyndon (1975)

The height of the fashion of the 1770’s, the robe a anglaise features a bodice with an attached overskirt parted in front to revel a matching petticoat. The distinctive wide hipped shape of the skirt is created using panniers and hip pads.  Here the petticoat is a recent addition, as skirts often suffer from wear during filming.

Evening Dress worn in the Buccaneers (1995)

Worn by Conchita ‘Connie’ Closson (Mia Sorvino) for the Christmas Ball at Longlands. Filmed at Castle Howard, this elegant gown epitomises fashionable style of the 1870’s.

The focus is on the back of the skirt, with bustles and ruffled petticoats used to create the distinctive silhouette.

Morning Dress with sash and garter Star; part worn in Victoria (2016)

The fashionable wide-skirted silhouette of the 1830’s relied upon a series of undergarments: a tightly laced corset, multiple layers of petticoats, plus a padded bustle to push out the skirt at the back.

Victoria (Jenna Coleman) wears black in the series filmed at Castle Howard as she was in mourning for her uncle, William IV.

Dress and Cape inspired by Bridgerton (2020)

Created by costumier Adrian Lillie, this ensemble is inspired by the outfit Daphne (Phebe Dyvenor) wears on arrival at Clyveden. The dress is typical of the high waisted neo- classical style typical of the early decades of the 19^th Century, worn with a hooded travelling cloak.

Frock coat, waistcoat and breeches, inspired by Bridgerton (2020)

Inspired by the outfit worn by Simon (Rege-Jean Page) on arrival at Clyveden, this ensemble was created for the exhibition by costumer Adrian Lillie. The high collared frockcoat is worn over a paisley jacquard waistcoat and matching cravat, this outfit is completed with black breeches and riding boots.

Shirt, jumper and trousers, part worn in Brideshead revisited (1981)

This outfit was worn by Sebastian (Anthony Andrews ) when he first takes Charles to see his family home of Brideshead, The light coloured clothing and cable knit jumper demonstrate the influence of sporting attire for tennis and cricket on casual menswear in the 1930’s.

Shirt, vest and trousers, part worn in Brideshead Revisited (1981)

Worn by Charles Ryder (Jeremy irons) during his first visit to Brideshead with Sebastian, and their picnic of wine and strawberries, this outfit reflects the casual style of men’s fashions in the 1920’s. While suits were worn for formal occasions, knitted sweaters and soft collared shirts were popular during the daytime.

This wonderful display was included in the entrance price of Castle Howard and it is well worth a visit – I highly recommend it! The exhibition runs until the end of October 2022.

I presented my Regency Talk for the Quilters Guild in Stannington in Northumberland yesterday. Had a great afternoon – the ladies in the group really enjoyed my talk – we certainly enjoyed presenting it. I met quite a few old friends and made some new ones.

I also included my new pink wool Spencer and hat inspired by the latest film version of Emma starring Anya Taylor Joy as the eponymous heroine of the famous novel. It is a very intricate jacket and wasn’t particularly easy to construct but I think it was definitely worth the effort!

During the questions and answer session after my talk one of the members mentioned she is the owner of some beautiful vintage fans and asked if I would like them – so she is sending me them to me- how kind of her.

I always include a fan with my Empress Josephine costume – this would always be carried be carried at a ball.  Her Battenberg lace fan has wooden spines and the lace is backed with fine gauze. The lace is pretty with panels of delicate embroidery – it is authentic to the period.

In the past, hand fans were used not only as cooling instruments as the ballroom would be extremely hot because of all the candles burning, but also as convenient communication devices, mainly for transmitting more or less furtive love messages –

• Placed near the heart – you have won my love
• Half open fan pressed to the lips – you may kiss me
• Touching the finger to the tips of the fan – I wish to speak with you – number of ticks shown – tells at what hour.

I mentioned that during a talk at ‘Kedleston Hall’ a few years ago a gentleman asked “is there a way of holding the fan to tell the wife to shut up when the football is on”. I think the ladies at my talk were very amused with this as they couldn’t stop laughing.

I would also like thank my son James for appearing as Mr Darcy  – he seemed to prove very popular because at the beginning of my talk he received a round of applause!

We really enjoyed presenting my Regency Talk ‘Enter the World of Jane Auste’n for The Quilters Guild and look forward to visiting them again!

I presented my Tudor Talk and Costume Display for The Border Textile Group last week. We were in Foulden near Berwick in a large airy hall in the centre of the village – the hall also boasts beautiful views over the countryside.

Costumes in my display included outfits inspired by Queen Elizabeth I, Anne Boleyn and Mary Queen of Scots.  My son James appeared in full regalia as the young King Henry VIII.

The Group kindly gave me the review below:

“Julia McCormick gave an informative talk on Saturday 9th April at Foulden village hall on Tudor costume. Her knowledge of historical times and the development in costume was phenomenal. Julia was joined by her son in an excellent Henry VIII costume which caused quite a stir.

Julia described each costume in detail explaining the hand sewing and research to achieve authentic embellishments. Members and visitors were delighted with the talk.”

I would like to thank you Margaret McLeish for the photos of my talk – I have included a few of them in this post.

After my talk I was happy to chat to the ladies in the group and one mentioned this was the third time she had seen my Tudor Costume Talk – she must really like it!

We really enjoyed presenting the event and are looking forward to our next talk ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen” on 30 April in Stannington near Durham!

A big thank you to my super son James and my lovely friend Claire for assisting me.

I included my display of Regency Gowns –underwear, morning dress, afternoon dress, evening gown and my sparkling Empress Josephine outfit. I also included a couple my new garments – a fabulous pink ornate spencer and bonnet inspired by the outfit worn by Anya Taylor-Joy in the latest film version of Emma. Emma wore it in the scene where she attends the wedding of her old governess.

The ladies really enjoyed my talk, and I was happy to include a question-and-answer session at the end.
Please find below a couple of the questions and my answers – I thought you might be interested to read them –

What types of Regency gloves were worn?

Different types of gloves were worn for different occasions. Gloves were worn usually white in colour or mainly pale shades. Usually in fine kidskin or leather – sometimes in silk or cotton for the evening. Short gloves to be worn during the day with long over the elbow gloves for evening events – hence the very short sleeves of evening dresses.

The sleeves of day dresses could be longer as the gloves were shorter. Ladies only removed their gloves when eating and laid their gloves neatly on their laps until the meal was over. They also wore fingerless gloves called mittens when sewing or doing fine work as it is impossible to sew when wearing gloves with fingers. The mittens worn indoors were usually knitted or crocheted. It was very important that hands were covered during this period!

Did Regency ladies wear coats, how did they keep warm?

Regency ladies wore mainly a Spencer jacket from 1790 to 1830 which was popular as long as the waistline remined high – it could be designed in fine wool – kerseymere or velvet plus silk for the evening. Jane Austen stated, “My Kerseymere Spencer is the comfort of my evening walks!”. I designed my red velvet spencer with military touches as braiding and frogging was popular during this period.

Ladies could also wear a Pelisse which was a version of the spencer which fell to full length or knee length and fastened at the front. It was high waisted and usually had a belt – it could be fur trimmed and have a broad cape.
They also wore a Redingote which was a ladies version of a gentleman’s riding coat. It could be trimmed with fur and was ankle length with long sleeves and high on the neck. The redingote was usually in dark colours and could have capes on the shoulder.

Shawls, capes, capelets and full-length cloaks were also worn to keep ladies warm outside.

I really enjoyed the event and the ladies made me very welcome. I am looking forward to presenting my next event which is my Tudor Talk and Costume Display early in 2022!
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 As a number of my customers have seen the new film ‘Emma’ released in 2020 and commented upon the beautiful costumes I decided to re-create an outfit inspired by a costume worn by Anya Taylor-Joy in the title role as Emma.  She wears it at the wedding of her governess who becomes Mrs Weston.

This exquisite pink fine wool Spencer jacket is worn over a high waisted white cotton dress with Regency bonnet. This jacket is one of the more complicated nevertheless extremely attractive garments worn in the film.  I decided to reproduce so I could include it in my Regency Costume display – I have also designed a ‘Stovepipe’ bonnet inspired by the one worn by Emma in the same scene.

As a pattern is not available for this jacket I adapted a pattern I have already used to make a regency Spencer in red velvet.   My Rocking Horse Farm Jacket pattern has quite a few differences however it was an great pattern to use as a base.

The Spencer worn by Anya Taylor-Joy in the film looks a fairly similar shape however the neckline and front are open on the pink spencer. Plus the sleeves are also very different and it has a lot of trimming including complex cording and buttons which decorate the front and back. It looks like a it has been designed in fine pink wool (it is always difficult to tell if you have not seen the garment in reality) and fully lined. 

A Regency Spencer was usually made in woolen or silk cloth.  I used 3 yards of 60 inch fabric for the jacket and 2 yards for the silk lining. The fabric used in the film looked like a very fine cashmere/wool, I used something similar albeit a bit heavier in weight . Pink wool coating fabric from www.minerva.com however I am sure you’ll agree it still makes beautiful decoration on my version of the jacket. 

I have also included a screenshot of the back of the jacket for you to view.

I cut out the body of the jacket – two fronts and a back – sewed the darts in the front – then stitched the side back seams and the shoulder seams.  This was repeated for the lining. The two collar sections were sewn together and basted to the neck edge. The lining was sewn into jacket right sides together up fronts and across neck edge leaving bottom edge open.  I sewed the jacket and lining right sides together along front edge and neck edge and turned the jacket was turned the right way out and pressed it.

I matched the bottom edge of the jacket and lining and armholes and sleeves and basted them together – the body is then treated as one piece.

For the full length sleeves I used my long sleeve pattern from my Regency Gown Sense and Sensibility pattern as it was exactly the shape I wanted. Next step was to sew the elbow darts in the long sleeves and sew the sleeve seams together- this is then repeated for the lining.

With right sides together I pinned the lining to the lower sleeve at bottom matching seams and then stitched them together. The sleeve was turned wrong side out – the lining was brought up over the sleeve then basted to lining. Sleeves are now treated as one piece.

I adapted the Rocking Horse Farm upper sleeve pattern to draft the short curvy shaped upper sleeve. The sleeve was lined and the edged was piped. Four diamonds of fabric with piped edges are attached together by buttons to the upper sleeve and an armband to create the elaborate over sleeves. The upper sleeve and long sleeve were then basted together at the top. Two rows of stitches were run along upper edge of sleeve and the sleeves were gathered to fit and sewn into the armhole. 

The sleeves had a straight cuff however Emma had an  over long flared cuff with a small band and button to hide the seam so I added this detail to my jacket.

A piece of fabric 3 1/4 inch wide by the measurement under bust plus 5 inches for the front tab  was folded in half lengthwise right sides together to create the waistband. I stitched across the ends and the corners were trimmed and it was turned the right way out and pressed.

The waistband is sewn to the bottom edge of the jacket. The loose end of the band sewn together for 5 inches together at the end to create the front fastening tab. A pretty buckle was then sewn onto the end of the waistband.

This elaborate jacket has cording created from tubes of fabric decorating the front and back. It needed a lot of cording so a lot of fabric! If you would like to know my easy method for making the cording please message me and I would be happy to help. 

The spencer worn in the film has a long piece of fabric attached at centre back which looks to me like a gentleman’s tie – I was not so keen on it so changed it to a pretty ruffle and also added self-covered buttons to the back and sleeves of the jacket.

I finally hand stitched a collar of pretty lace inside the neckline of the jacket to complete the effect.

I have designed a hat inspired by the one worn by Anna Taylor Joy worn by Emma – it is a “stovepipe” Regency bonnet so called because of its high crown.

The hat worn by Emma was quite high however I preferred a slightly lower crown so I used ‘Ophelia’ a pattern with instructions to create a regency/federal era poke bonnet from 1810 – 1820. I bought it from Jane Austen.co.uk and would definitely recommend it if you fancy making it yourself.

My hat has been made from three pieces of buckram  – a brim, a crown and a circular tip.  The bottom edge of the brim and also the circle tip are sewn round the edge with millinery wire  – I used metal ferrules (they can be purchased quite cheaply online) to join the wire securely.  The edges of the center back of the buckram brim and the edges of the buckram crown are then sewn together. The brim, crown and top are then covered separately with domette. Domette is a fabric like winceyette which pads out the base, so the hat is more cushioned and comfortable.

I used white cotton with a square pattern to cover my bonnet. I bought the cotton from “Spoonflower Fabrics” which is an online fabric company with extensive choices of fabric for a very reasonable price. You can choose the pattern and then decide the type of fabric you will like to have it printed upon. I neatly covered the brim, top and crown in the cotton. I also embellished the inside of the brim with exquisite pink lace and then carefully sewed the three pieces together. I finally lined the crown of the bonnet in pink silk fabric.

I decorated the hat with yellow wired fabric leaves, three narrow cream organza ribbons sewn together to create wide ribbon bows. I also used green silk leaves and natural chrysanthemum dried sunflowers.  To add the finishing touch I added some beautiful white nodding feathers.

I am sure you will agree this is a very pretty outfit and quite similar to the costume worn by Anya Taylor-Joy in the film.  I am looking forward to presenting my Regency Talk and including this new stunning Regency outfit!

There was plenty to see and do, including wonderful street stalls,an indoor market in the town hall, goats and llamas, Morris dancers, a Victorian choir and an amazing Hurdy Gurdy band. It rained most of the day but didn’t dampen our spirits – we had a really good time! 

I designed a red wool and gold silk Edwardian outfit and my twin sister designed her beautiful mauve Victorian costume and hat created in two-tone silk taffeta. 

My Edwardian costume consisted of a Eton Jacket made of red wool fabric and lined in black satin.  This semi-fitted jacket hangs open in the front, usually worn over a blouse. It has two styles, one crop length with a rounded collar. The other, waist length with a square collar.

The main body is in three pieces, Back, Side Back, and Front. The front is fitted with a single dart. The sleeve is in two pieces, fitted to well above the elbow and with a full sleeve head. This jacket is not boned, and can be worn with or without a corset. Drafted based on a tailoring method actually used in the Victorian era, each size is hand drawn, not scaled, with all of the seams true to the era. 

I decorated it around the collar and on the cuffs with gold frogging and gold/black braid. It was very quick and easy to make and fitted me perfectly as it was multi-sized I would certainly recommend this pattern.

My jacket was worn with a pure silk two tone skirt in shades of gold  – it was was cut in sections and hand pleated to the red silk waistband.  I edged the hem with dark red satin ribbon and double rows of braid to match the trimming on my jacket. Underneath the skirt I worn an ‘A’ line petticoat to give shape and black leather boots.

Beneath the Eton jacket I wore a very pretty extant Victorian cotton and lace blouse with a gold brooch of my own fastening it at the neck.  I also used a black belt with an antique gold buckle tightly fastened at the waist to give me shape.

My Edwardian inspired hairstyle consisted of a large plait of hair fastened with pins on the top of my head which looped down my back and then fastened with a gilt slide.

To complete the look I created an Edwardian style hat. I used buckram edged with wire to create the correct shape then padded it with domette and covered it in red velvet fabric on the outside and black silk on the inside.

My hat has a brim stand which gives it the correct angle for wearing and has a contrast under-brim. I have decorated it with flowers, ribbons, gold net and feathers. I think the pattern I used (pictured below) produced a very attractive hat.

I finished my outfit with a pair of beautiful soft black leather gloves which were essential on such a cold December day to keep my hands warm. 

We  really enjoyed our trip to Grassington and it was well worth a visit  – we will certainly be going next year and will enjoy making a new set of costumes!

By the way if you wish to ask ask any questions about the construction and design of our costumes please message and we would be happy to help! 

Enjoyed presenting another talk earlier this October my ‘Tudor Talk ‘for the Quilters Guild in Bishop Auckland. Costumes included Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth I and Mary Queen of Scots in her execution gown. My son Jamie was happy to appear as King Henry VIII and he proved very popular with the members. Quite a few of the ladies had also seen my Jane Austen and Marie Antoinette talks and travelled quite to way to see my Tudor Talk – I think I now have a fan club!

Thought you may like to hear a few interesting points of my talk

• Strait laced – after my talk on of the member of the Guild mentioned ‘strait lacing’. Apparently the term originated because the higher class ladies laced their dresses across that is to say parallel unlike criss cross lacing.  Crossing the laces is much quicker to take on and take off so the lower class of ladies – prostitutes and courtesans had cross laces so they could take them off quicker to ‘get down to business’! Very interesting

• I was asked if the Tudor ladies wore knickers – Ladies of the Tudor period wore no knickers at all – they weren’t worn until about the 1780’s! As they had layers of petticoats and hoop skirts they weren’t deemed essential or necessary – in fact they hadn’t even been thought of.

• A lady inquired if the the men wore trousers – the trouser equivalent of the day were breeches or slops.  They were made with strips or panes of fabric gathered onto a waistband with the silky or linen fabric pulled through – as they didn’t have zips in those days there was an opening or slit of fabric at the front – this was covered initially by a small triangular shape of fabric tied at the top corners by ribbons or cords.  This evolved to a padded piece if fabric called the codpiece.  For Henry VIII it was made of gold fabric and decorated with rich jewels.  They were usually padded out by wadding however some gentleman kept their money, coins, jewels or valuables in them – hence the term – ‘ A man’s crown jewels’! Of Course Henry VIII had to have the biggest codpiece.

• I also mentioned that King Henry VIII wore a hat or bonnet as it was called. It was made of buckram edged with wire. Covered in domette (a padding fabric like wincyette today) and then covered in black velvet. It was decorated with feathers, pearls, gold setting with jewels. He wore it as a young man to show his wealth however as he got older he used it to cover his balding head and never took it off in public – even at night he wore a linen cap – it is said the his fifth wife young Katherine Howard was never allowed to see his lack of hair!

When my son James appeared on stage as the King – one of the ladies at my talk exclaimed ‘ Look a nice young Henry‘! I think it certainly brings historical characters to life when the costumes are worn.

The Ladies of the Guild said they really enjoyed my talk – we certainly enjoyed presenting it!