Last night we presented our Regency Talk and Costume Display for Heighton WI – Heighton is a very pretty village quite close to Newton Aycliffe.It was for a special WI event called a friendship evening and we were happy to present the entertainment.

The ladies enjoyed special cake and gateaux baked specially for the event  – enjoyed with prosecco wine. We were of course asked to join them however an alcoholic beverage is possibly not the best idea prior to presenting a costume talk!

I presented my Regency Talk which included costumes inspired by  Jane Austen and Empress Josephine among others.

After the talk I was pleased to offer a question and answer session.

One of the very interesting questions included –

What types of lace were used in the regency period? 

We will be returning to Heighton WI to present my new talk “Marie Antoinette and what she wore to the Revolution” – we are certainly looking forward to it!

“Enter the World of Jane Austen’ Regency Talk and Costume Display”

I presented my Jane Austen Regency Talk with Costume Display on 9 April 2016 for the Border Textile Group in Foulden.

They have published a very interesting article about my costume event on their website – I thought you may like to view it.

It contains a number of interesting facts from my talk as well as pictures taken of my costumes and myself during the event.

I included a quick demonstration on my talk entitled – “How to make an excellent Regency Bonnet in a couple of hours”   also included on their website is a picture of one of the members wearing my Regency Bonnet.

She loved it so much after my talk decided to go home and make one herself – I am looking forward to receiving a photo of her creation!

Hope you enjoy reading the article!

With very many thanks to Annie Robinson for taking the photographs 

My Jane Austen Talk with Costume Display was featured in the Northern Echo on Tuesday 10 November – please find excerpt below –

AN insight into the fashion of Jane Austin has helped raise money for the Alzheimer’s Society.

Julia Soares-McCormick entertained and informed guests about the history of Regency clothing between 1811 and 1820, using costumes she made herself.

The talk at Sedgefield Parish Hall was organised by the town’s mayor Gloria Wills, who was joined by residents and the mayors of Bishop Auckland, Barnard Castle, Newton Aycliffe, Hartlepool, South Tyneside and Brandon and Byshottles.

Dubbed as an insight into the world of Jane Austin’s clothing, the five costumes, made by Mrs Soares-McCormick, from Cramlington, Northumberland were explained along with some historical background.

She was assisted by her husband, Mick McCormick who demonstrated how the Spencer coat got its name after Earl Spencer of the period burnt his frock coat while standing too close to the fire.

Ms Wills said: “Mrs Soares-McCormick’s talk includes lots about how the costumes were made and how they would have affected the people’s lives who wore them. The clothes were very impractical. Imagine going out in the rain wearing such a long dress.”

 

 

 

 
The event was supported by Sedgefield businesses along with Sedgefield’s pensioner support group, Days In Days Out.”The talk at Sedgefield Parish Hall was organised by the town’s mayor Gloria Wills who was joined by the mayors of Bishop Auckland, Barnard Castle, Newton Aycliffe, Hartlepool, South Tyneside and Brandon and Byshottles” .

I really enjoyed presenting the event and meeting all the lovely ladies  – we also joined them for refreshments afterwards.

View the article in the Northern Echo – – http://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/news/14021241.Jane_Austin_costumes_explained_at_Sedgefield_Parish_Hall/

 

 

Muncaster Regency Talk

Muncaster is a beautiful Castle near Ravenglass in Cumbria.  It is a historic haunted building set in 70 acres of stunning wild gardens set against the Lake District fells – it is also home to the Hawk & Owl Centre.

Muncaster Castle

We were booked to present our Regency Talk with Costume Display ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’ on Thursday 27 August and Friday 28 August 2015 as part of the ‘Living History Week’.

The wonderful hall

We presented our talks in the wonderful grand hall – a fabulous setting for a period costume display with beautiful portraits lining the walls. During my talk I used a portrait of a lady in a beautiful silver gown to show the type of garment which was worn prior to the regency era and to illustrate how the change in style was so dramatic.

Portrait of a lady in a silver gown on display in the Great Hall

Throughout the week Muncaster have had a range of history events to keep the whole family entertained – the line-up for 2015 includes the Herlid Vikings, the Iron Shepherds (Norman-era re-enactment), the 19th Foot Green Howards Crimean War and of course Renaissance Costumes with our Regency-era dresses. 

The 19th Foot Green Howards

Also included were the Red Wyverns Re-enactment Society and the Tudor Alchemist.

We stayed in the Coachman’s Quarters – a lovely period building overnight and also met members of the 19th Foot Howards Crimean War Group who were camped in the grounds.

19th Foot Green Howards

Ladies from the Crimean War group attended my talk on the Thursday and said they really enjoyed it.  The next day the ladies invited me to their camp and I had a great time chatting to them about their lovely costumes. they also kindly lent me a Victorian jacket for the photograph!

Sitting with the lovely ladies of the 19th Foot Green Howards

Apparently they were having rabbit stew on the Thursday and boiled gammon the next day- all cooked on an authentic open fire.  Sadly the tents were a bit too authentic for me I preferred the Coachman’s quartets and staying in an en-suite room!

My Regency Gentleman

My thanks to Jo and Bronwen at Muncaster Castle for all their help and support in presenting the our events – not forgetting Rachel a super girl who worked in the accommodation office.

My Jane Austen Costume

We had a really great couple of days  – Muncaster is a fabulous Castle and the staff are great.

I would love to return to Muncaster in the future to present more events and also really hope to meet the lovely  ladies of the Green Howards again.

My talk is called ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’ – costumes included in my display were inspired by clothing which would have been worn about the time of the Battle of Waterloo.

We presented our talks at 2pm on both days in the ‘War Cinema’ –they were well attended and we had an enthusiastic audience on both occasions. They particularly enjoyed my ‘regency bonnet tutorial’ – I explained how to make a very attractive bonnet in a couple of hours from an inexpensive straw hat!

We also had time to enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the battleground which were brought to life to celebrate the 200th anniversary of one of Britain’s greatest military triumphs.

Stunt riders from Goole-based Atkinson Action Horses were at the Royal Armouries to mark the anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo starting on Saturday. Stunt rider Mark Atkinson, from Atkinson Action Horses performed with horse Jonny (who also was seen in the popular TV series Poldark). The team were at the Armouries this weekend – June 20 and 21, showcasing cavalry fighting techniques used at Waterloo amid black-powder firings.

Actors dressed as Wellington and Napoleon Bonaparte provided a comedy touch. A tiny –Napoleon Bonaparte in a ‘Punch and Judy’ style booth as well as a very tall Lord Wellington in stilts and very large boots – a very amusing pair!

The Royal Armouries also hosted a parade by members of The Yorkshire Regiment on the anniversary of battle, June 18, as well as dramatic productions, study groups and not forgetting our Regency Costume Display.

It was very busy on both days so both the Royal Armouries and ourselves had a very successful weekend – it is certainly worth a visit! Our thanks to Rachel – the Events Manager for all her help and support in presenting our events – we certainly enjoyed presenting our talks and meeting all the visitors!

Following a very successful ‘Tudor Fashion Show ‘ presented at the Royal Armouries in Leeds I am pleased to  announce that ‘Julia Renaissance Costumes’ has been booked again to present a number of costume events.

My events are to be included as part of the celebrations of the bi-centenary of the Battle of Waterloo which took place in 1815.

A display of my romantic Regency fashions from the time of Waterloo which will be on show in the galleries.

To compliment the display there will also be a number of costume presentations –

Regency Costume Talk/Lecture with Display-

A very interesting, lively, humorous and informative lecture about the design and construction of my Regency period costumes. Five beautifully dressed mannequins will accompany the talk.  Included are an ornate gold-encrusted court gown inspired by Empress Josephine.  A very pretty white cotton afternoon dress fit for Jane Austen worn with bonnet, chemisette and spencer. Also included is  a sumptuous  lilac silk ball gown embellished with gold and lilac guipure lace worn with a turban, fan and gloves  – a stunning outfit fit for the Netherfield Ball! Regency underwear, A morning gown and accessories worn during this period will also be included. Not forgetting a personal appearance by a Regency Gentleman in frock coat, waistcoat and breeches!

My talk will be presented on Tuesday 26 May and will be repeated on Friday 29 May – times are to be confirmed.

I do hope you will join us.

For more information please click

https://www.royalarmouries.org/events/calendar/2015-05-26/something-different-every-day

The excerpt below is taken from the WI Website –

“Half-Yearly Council Meeting March 30th 2015

Gill, Doreen, Jill and Ann all went to Kendal Town Hall on a wild evening for the Half-Yearly Council meeting.They were entertained by Julia Soares-McCormick (ably assisted by her husband Mick) with her talk entitled ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’.There were four models on stage showing different costumes from the regency times: underwear, morning dress, afternoon dress and wonderful evening wear.

Enjoying a coffee before the event

 

 Julia told us about her training in stage design and explained in great detail all about the different costumes.  She had made them all herself and you can see how wonderful they are in the pictures below. 

At the start of the evening in front of the costumes

 

Mick standing next to one of the outfits”

 

(I have also added a couple of my pictures I took while the members were arriving  –  I thought you might like to see them  as they show the interior of the beautiful Town Hall.)

   

I presented a very interesting, humorous and informative lecture about the design/construction of my Regency inspired costumes. I provided a display of beautifully costumed mannequins wearing clothes inspired by the regency period – costumes for Empress Josephine and Jane Austen were included.

The Army & Navy Club is playing host to a series of lectures and commemorative events to celebrate and reflect on the enduring values handed down to us from those brave men who fought on the fields near Waterloo.

The Club was founded in August 1837, the year Queen Victoria acceded to the throne. The Club was formed to meet the needs of the many army officers wanting to join a Service Club, most of which were already full. The great Duke of Wellington said he would become neither a patron nor a Member unless membership was also offered to officers of the Royal Navy and Royal Marines. Hence, the “Army Club” became the Army and Navy Club. The Army and Navy Club also has close links with other military clubs in London including the famous ‘Reform Club’. The Club is also commonly know as ‘The Rag’.

The Club is a beautiful building in Pall Mall close to St James Park and Piccadilly Circus. It has six floors which include a number of beautiful and well furnished rooms. We presented our event in the elegant library – the walls lined with books and exquisite paintings displaying a number of military events – it provided a superb setting for my costumes.

Following the French revolution and the wars in Europe clothing became much simpler and classical compared to the very ornate clothing worn previously – it is very interesting to note that this change in style was echoed almost exactly 100 years later. Following the Great War ladies clothing became much simpler and more classical than those worn during the rather fussy style of the Victorian era.

My husband was elegantly attired as a Regency gentleman – I designed his tailcoat in beautiful melton wool – a high quality cloth perfectly suited to the garment. It was interesting to note that one of the guests was a retired doctor part of the medical corps – he mentioned that his mess uniform while serving was made of a similar type of high quality wool.

Ladies at regency balls usually wore light coloured gowns so they would be noticed by candlelight – if you wore dark colours you would probably not be seen  – after all you attended a ball in the hope of finding a husband!  I was asked if gentlemen wore black at balls.  Gentleman did indeed wear dark coats and very elegant they were.

Costumed as a Regency Gentleman my husband wore period trousers – back fastening with a flap front – I was asked if they were designed in cotton fabric.  The trousers were actually made of medium weight linen – correct for the period.  It is also important to mention that the fabric must be washed and dried at least three times prior to cutting as the fabric can shrink up to 10%. So must be shrunk before cutting out from the pattern.

I also visited Borovicks in Berwick St in Soho during my stay in London – a wonderful fabric shop n central London which I would highly recommend.  I also visited ‘Creative Beadcraft’ located near Piccadilly Circus which is a wonderful emporium of beads and jewels – they also have an excellent mail order service.

My Regency style Bonnet proved a very popular item again – it is an quite a simple item to reproduce.  I mention the making of my Regency bonnet during my talk illustrated with a very simple template. A  number of the guests requested instructions.

Usually women are in the majority of my audience however on this occasion they were outnumbered by gentlemen.  After the talk a number of male attendees said that they found the my talk although traditionally a women’s subject very enjoyable, interesting and humorous – so it’s not just not just one for the ladies!

I also discussed the recent costumes and popularity of the TV drama Wolf Hall with a number of guests.  We agreed the costumes were very realistic and we that we have all enjoyed the series.  Particularly the portrayal of Anne Boleyn by Claire Foy – she made the rather unlikeable character of Anne gain our sympathy by the time of the dramatic finale.

I also included a Chemisette in my talk. In the Regency era, a chemisette was commonly worn underneath a morning dress to fill in the neckline. It covered the visible shoulders and chest to make the outfit appear more modest. In fact décolleté was not shown during this period – it was considered vulgar. No fashion plates of the period show cleavage. It is a delightful way to change up the appearance of your Regency dress – it makes a very pretty and functional addition to the gown. After my talk I showed a number of guests a very famous picture of Jane Austen shows her wearing a blue dress, chemisette and cap. In an image of Jane Austen painted by Cassandra, Jane wears a simple gown; you can observe her chemisette under the low neckline, which created a more modest look for day time.

I was asked about my work for television – I am happy to mention that my Tudor Fashion show has been filmed and is to be included as part of a documentary about the life and costumes of Elizabeth I. As soon as I have details of when the documentary is to be televised, I will post it on my website.

During our visit to the Army and Navy Club we stayed in a beautiful room on the fourth floor and dined both in the elegant dining room and the lovely Ribbon Terrace Bar.

I would like to thank Seye from the Army and Navy Club in London for all his help and hospitality in making our event such a success– we certainly enjoyed presenting it!

We received the message below from Seye at the Army and Navy Club after our event.

” Thank you so much – the event was a riveting success, subsequently, a lady who attended the event asked me to forward on your contact details as they were thinking of booking you for a costume talk in Kent.  I will certainly pass on your thanks to Lt Col John White, the committee member who was present at the talk. I do look forward to hearing from  you again in the not too distant future.”

Last Thursday we presented ‘Regency Afternoon Tea with talk and costumes ‘in the very beautiful and also traditional setting of ‘The Royal Scots Club’.

The Royal Scots Club is a welcoming private members’ club in the heart of one of the world’s greatest cities, Edinburgh. Situated within one of the capital’s finest Georgian streets, the Royal Scots Club offers that rare combination; the charm of a country house hotel with a cosy club atmosphere

The Royal Scots Club has 25 individually designed, en-suite bedrooms, traditionally furnished with all the luxury facilities you would expect from a high class hotel.

The Royal Scots club is located within one of Edinburgh’s most beautiful areas. With its Georgian architecture and traditional fixtures, the Royal Scots Club truly captures the warmth and character of a Scottish country house.

We presented our talk in the beautiful Hepburn Suite – a fabulous room with luxury furnishings and a lovely spacious stage. It was a very interesting, lively, humorous and informative lecture about the design and construction of gowns I have created inspired by the Regency period. Beautifully costumed mannequins/dummies accompanied my talk.  Included were Empress Josephine, a pretty white cotton afternoon dress for Jane Austen, a lilac silk ball gown and regency underwear and accessories.

I was ably assisted by my husband Michael dressed as a ‘Regency Gentleman’ He looked splendid in his new costume worn for the first time.  It included a linen shirt, silk waistcoat, trousers, cravat, boots and wool tailcoat. I completed the tailcoat only a week ago and I must admit I am very pleased with it. I used very dark blue medium weight wool. The sleeves are lined with dark blue silk and it is finished with dull gold buttons. The sleeves are lined in silk so the coat can be removed easily as the sleeves are fashionably tight.

The event was fully booked and members of the Royal Scots Club had travelled from far and wide.  A lovely couple had travelled from Stockport to Edinburgh for a three day break – the highlight of their last was my Regency Talk with Afternoon Tea. They said they really enjoyed my talk.

I designed and made a Regency Bonnet which was included as part of my ‘Afternoon Outfit’ – the bonnet proved one of the highlights of my talk. I demonstrated how easy it is to create a bonnet yourself from a plain straw hat with a brim.  After the talk I was prevailed upon to draw a template for the bonnet on a paper napkin so members could go home and make a bonnet for themselves!

There is a large amount of metal trimming and frogging on most of my regency costumes as military touches were very popular at the time.

My Empress Josephine Velvet Robe has been trimmed with sumptuous gold guipure lace and lavishly embellished with gold embroidery and gold spangles. A fashion for military touches persisted at this time so many coats, robes and outer garments were covered in decorative braids, tassels, frogging and cords; as a result their wearers looked like members of the Hussars.

Our Room at the Club

I have decorated my red velvet Spencer (a short jacket worn by ladies during the regency) with gold military style braid and four beautiful gold frogs to fasten down the front. Many ladies in support of their office beaux wore a feminised version of their uniforms.

I was asked where such trimmings can be obtained and I recommended MacCulloch and Wallis – a super shop located in central London near John Lewis. If however London in not on your doorstep they do offer a very good online service which I would certainly recommend.

 http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/

I was also asked where you can obtain 1” square paper for pattern drafting – to be honest I haven’t been able to purchase any rolls of squared paper this size.

My answer is to buy a large roll of plain white paper and cut off a couple of meters. Then mark one inch down the side and across the top – join the points with a ruler to create a grid of one inch squares.  It takes quite a long time but is worth it.  Do not use this paper to draft your patterns.  Buy a roll of tracing paper and stick the tracing paper carefully over the grid at the edges with clear tape. Use the one inch grid underneath to draft you pattern on the tracing paper – use pencil just in case you make a mistake.  When you have finished carefully remove the tracing paper and you have your pattern and the grid underneath to use again for your next pattern – It certainly saves you a lot of time!

Feedback from the members was excellent – they said they were all very entertained by my talk. I have no doubt that we will returning to the Royal Scots Club in the future.  In the meantime I mustn’t forget to mention that we are presenting our Regency Talk again this time  at their sister club ‘The Army and Navy’ located in Pall Mall on 19^th March 2015 – we are really looking forward to presenting our talk in London.

http://www.therag.co.uk/club-membership/events/upcoming-events/

By kind and generous invitation of the ‘Royal Scots Club’ we stayed overnight in one of their beautiful executive suites on the second floor – it was a fabulous room with a lovely view of Edinburgh. We also visited the members only dining room where we enjoyed a feast of delights including Escalope of venison with redcurrant jus and Fillet of Scotch beef in a mild pepper sauce Next morning we feasted on a hearty Scottish breakfast before returning home. I cannot recommend the ‘Royal Scots Club’ too highly. I would also like to thank all the staff at the ‘Royal Scots Club’ for making our stay such a delight.

I certainly mustn’t forget to thank Janet – Secretary of the Scots Club – a delightful lady – for all her help in making the event such a success and for her kind hospitality – I must say we really enjoyed our visit.

After the event we received the lovely message below from Janet the Club Secretary –

“We so enjoyed having you and Mick at the Club and giving that extremely entertaining and informative talk. There were three ladies in today who yet again re-iterated how much they had enjoyed the presentation and the costumes on Thursday. You have an enviable gift, to be able to produce such fabulous outfits, and so kind of you to share it with us.  I do hope you enjoyed your stay as much as we enjoyed having you here – there will definitely be a next time! And I know some of the ladies from Thursday want to be in touch about other presentations.So many many thanks, we do appreciate you travelling up to Edinburgh and hope to see you at the Club again in the future”.

I have created a Regency Outfit which is to be worn in 2015 as part of my talk ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’. This elegant outfit comprises of a shirt, trousers, waistcoat, coat and cravat. I have completed the shirt, trousers and waistcoat and still have to make the coat and cravat but thought you may be interested in seeing pictures of the costume so far. (Click any photograph for them to enlarge).

My Regency Shirt was created in the  1790-1830 in the English Style’ with period construction techniques.

The shirts were usually made in unbleached or partially bleached linen. It is interesting to note that  ‘Irish’ – a kind of flax linen is sometimes mentioned during this period for shirts. Although the shirts were usually plain – occasionally ‘checks’ such as blue-white and brown/white were used for work shirts. I have created this attractive shirt in fine linen fabric in an off-white shade. The fabric was washed in hand hot water twice prior to cutting as the material can shrink up to 10%.

While the choice of white material might seem go unnoticed today, in Beau Brummell’s time the wearing of white shirts, waistcoats and neck cloths was an indication of a man’s money.  In order to maintain an immaculate appearance in a filthy city or the country, these easy to dirty clothes would have to be changed at lot which meant a lot of laundering charges affordable only by the well off.

The pattern of a man’s shirt was relatively simple. It was made from a series of squares and rectangles sewn together to form an unfitted and comfortable undergarment.

The neckline is formed on the body by folding a rectangle of fabric lengthwise – it is then cut into a ‘T’ shape to form the opening for the head. There are also triangular gussets sewn to the edges of the neckline at each side with shoulder straps stitched over the top. The neckline is then gathered and drawn up to the correct size to fit the collar.  The collar cut twice the width required and then folded down in half and fastened by two buttons and tiny hand worked buttonholes.

The shirt sleeves are rectangles of fabric gathered into wristbands fastened by a single bone button and a hand sewn buttonhole. The cuff is decorated with top stitching – it was often made with replaceable cuffs (so the shirt would last longer).

The sleeves have a square of linen which is sewn to the top of each sleeve so when the shirt underarm seams are sewn together it creates a gusset to allow the arm full range of movement.  The shirt sleeves are then gathered and sewn to fit the shoulder seam. After the side seam is stitched a rectangle of fabric called a sleeve binder is sewn to the shoulder seam inside to strengthen and finish the shirt. The shirt also has side slits which are hand hemmed. The sleeve seam is dropped  – that is to say not placed at the top of the arm as are the seams in a modern dress shirt.

it is a very interesting fact that although the shirt frill at the front was very fashionable at one time it had fallen out of favour by this time as the cravat usually fully covered it Older gentlemen who were more conservative clung to the old insignia of rank with a ‘frilled shirt’. This however was usually worn only for  the evening and by 1800 had usually completely disappeared.

Although it can’t be seen in the photographs the shirt is very voluminous – it reaches to the gentleman’s knees and is tucked into the trousers.

In the photographs the gathered cuff, shoulder straps and dropped shoulder can clearly be seen. It is certainly a very attractive garment!

Regency Gentleman’s Waistcoat

I have created a beautiful silk damask and linen waistcoat as part of my regency Gentleman’s outfit.

To make this garment I have based the design on a single- breasted gentleman’s waistcoat circa 1790 – 1815. It has a standing collar and six buttons. The pattern is inspired by features and construction details from numerous waistcoats and contemporary patterns and illustrations.

During this period only plain colours for a shirts, jackets and trousers were deemed fashionable so with his waistcoat the Regency man was allowed to choose a pattern. Any colour of fabric can be used as long as it is a colour that can be created from natural dyes. Fabrics used for waistcoats include cotton, silk, wool or linen. Sometimes they were embroidered, as they had been in the 18th Century, or else they could have patterns woven into the material. . I have used very high quality woven 100% silk damask in shades of black and fawn.

The lining for regency Waistcoats was usually a nice quality cotton or linen in a natural light tan or cream – I have used tan coloured light brown linen which was a remnant left over from making the Regency trousers.(see below).

Although most of the waistcoat was hidden beneath the frock coat, the fabric could be seen along the edges of the front lapel and collar and from beneath the bottom front panels of the frock coat.   Regency period is all about elegant simplicity, no big floral type prints or anything too shiny. A regency waistcoat is also short, it reaches about an inch below the natural waist, it is not long like the 18th Century styles that hang to the hips. A regency waistcoat does not have have points – it is also a straight line across the front.

Please note during this period the waistcoat is intended to fit 1” below the natural waistline so the it will just cover the top of the trousers. There must be no gap between the waistcoat and trouser. It fits snugly and smoothly over the body so not creating bulk under the jacket. If required tapes can be attached to the back to tighten the fit across the chest and stomach.

It was usual to make the back of the silk waistcoat out of linen or a cheaper fabric as it would not be been seen  – the regency waistcoat was never worn without a coat.

For the interfacing have used light canvas which is period correct. I

Before I started I made a toile (a mock up of the body of the waistcoat) in cheap calico. A toile [“twahl”] – or a muslin – is an initial mock up of a garment made in cheap fabric so you can check and alter how the pattern fits your body before cutting into your nice fabric.

The first job is was to attach light canvas interfacing to fronts and apply stay tape (1/4” wide) along the hem line of the front edge  – this was to prevent stretching. I then hand stitched the lapel and front facings along the front and bottom edge. . The lapels are faced with silk only where the collar lapels turn back – the rest of the front lining is linen (see picture below).

Buttonholes are then worked down the front of the left front – I have sewed six neat buttonholes – not my favourite job I must admit!

The back waistcoat edges are then pressed under and attached to the fronts at the shoulder seams. The collar is interfaced with canvas and sewn with small parallel stitches (pad stitches) to help the collar curve and keep it stiff. The collar is then stitched to the neckline.

The collar is constructed to look the same inside and out – with the inner and outer collar edges even and the edges sewn together with over-stitches.  This creates a finished look from the front edges of a standing collar from any angle.

The lining was prick stitched to the outer front the full length of the arm scythe with lining and facing hemmed along the collar seam. The back lining edges are turned under and the back is attached to the front at the side seams.

The back lining is neatly hand stitched along the side seams, arm scythes and lower hem edge and the buttons attached. Bone, metal or wood buttons can be used during this period. However metal buttons were usually used for coats only so I have used these pretty buttons in natural coloured wood for my waistcoat. I think they look very attractive and tone with the fawn tone of the fabric.

Waistcoats are usually worn with the collar standing at this period. Some had pockets and some did not – it is I suppose a personal preference. I prefer the style without pockets for a smoother line.

Voilà a beautiful Regency Waistcoat and believe it or not it fitted perfectly first time – it was well worth the time spent making a toile!

Regency Gentleman’s Trousers

I have created these Regency Gentlemen’s Trousers   they have a high waist and were worn from 1790 to about 1810.

By the turn of the 19th Century, breeches, pantaloons and trousers worn by all men were sewn with a flap in front called a fall front. This flap was always held in place by two or three buttons at the top. No belts were worn instead breeches, pantaloons and trousers were held up by tight-fitting waists, which were adjusted by ties sewn in back of the waist.

As waists rose to the belly button after 1810, braces(also known as suspenders)  were used to hold the garment up. They were designed for the waistband to be worn just under the natural waist.

The Trousers were slit up the seam for a few inches above the ankle as this allowed the foot to get through the leg of the pants. Trousers were made of wool, linen or cotton. Though they were at first only appropriate for day-wear they eventually gained acceptance for wearing in the evening as well.

The back had rather full fabric which I have pleated into the waistband at the back –  seats were baggy to allow a man to rise easily from a sitting position. They also could have a drawstring tightening at the back (the behind should never be seen since it’s always covered by tails). My trousers were inspired by the style of several pairs of trousers from late 1700’s and early 1800’s. To be honest they do look strange and full at the back –  when compared to modern trousers but nevertheless are correct for the regency period.

These trousers have the waistband in two sections, left and right with a lace tie at the back and buttons in front. There is fall closing (which unbuttons to let the flap down) and below fall flaps called bearers. There are also rectangles of fabric called binders which finish the edges of the the fabric cut to create the flap. A pocket is placed on each side which has  button closures. There are also short opening at the ankle seams called vents and linings in the fall and waistband. Legs are cut on the straight grain with no pressed creases!

The bottom edge of the waistband sits at the natural waist and the  ankles are loose and finish at the ankle bone not the shoe as in modern trousers. Suspenders or braces must be used to hold them up.

Fabrics used during the regency period included cotton, flax, hemp, linen, wool and cotton/linen mix. Colours included yellow-tan, blue various browns, white and pale colours for fine dress or a variety of other deep tones worn with a dark blue, green, or brown coat. I have used a fawn shade of medium weight linen with black cotton for the lining.

The trousers were assembled as a left and right half and then joined at the crotch seam.

I lined the bearers (also known as under-fall) and stitched two buttonholes on the left side of the bearer only.

I attached the fall binders and bearers to the trouser fronts. I then attached the fall linings.

I made the pockets in black cotton fabric and attached them to the trouser front. I then worked buttonholes in the pocket flaps and fall binders and stitched the bottom edges of the pocket together on the inside.

I then stitched the side seams of the trousers and hemmed the ankle vents. The waistband was lined and attached  – I pleated the fabric to fit at the back – about eight pleats each side.I left the back open (for the lacing).

I sewed buttonholes in the left waistband and stitched the inseams and crotch seam. Finally I worked two eyelet holes into both sides of the back waistband and. threaded through a tie for fastening. I then attached 9 buttons!

I also made a pair of simple braces of brown coloured woven strapping attached to the trousers by four wooden buttons – two at the front and two at the back. The cross at the back is back stitched in a diamond shape to prevent the braces from slipping off the shoulders.

The trousers fit very well and certainly look the part with the waistcoat and shirt.

I have included only basic construction notes in this post however If you would like to recreate these garments yourself I would certainly recommend Kannik’s Korner patterns which include full and comprehensive instructions. For more information I would be happy for you to contact me.

By the way just a note – I am currently searching for some period glasses as Specsavers aren’t quite the part -if anyone can help please contact me!

My next project is to design and make a regency Gentleman’s coat and cravat to complete this costume – I will be posting pictures when finished so please watch this space!