Yesterday I presented my Regency Costume Talk and Display ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’ for Sunderland Embroiderers Guild. We had a splendid afternoon and the ladies said they really enjoyed my talk. I described the fashions worn around the time of Jane Austen who was born in 1775 and only lived until 1817 dying at the age of only 42 years old.

It was an era immortalised by Jane Austen who adeptly used the new found diversity of fashion to enliven her characters – Mr Darcy’s understated elegance, Miss Tilney’s romantic fixation with white muslin and Mr Whickham’s military splendour.

I compared the different types of dresses worn during the period – the casual morning dress worn only in the house – created of old fabric or restyled dresses – why with all the money you saved you could spend it on your going out dresses!

 The afternoon or going out dress which would be of the best fabric and decorated beautifully to go out and be seen in. I created a very elegant gown in white windowpane cotton and lace.

I also included a very ornate and elaborate pure silk evening gown – which I created in lilac silk fabric decorated with crystal beading and gold lace which would be worn for a ball.

Not forgetting my set of Regency reproduction underwear  – it is extremely important to wear the right undergarments to give the correct period shape. I designed a short stays bra worn about 1800 – 1830 and a chemise which would be the first layer nest to the skin. I also included a set of the first pair of knickers ever worn in about 1790 – before then NO KNICKERS were worn at all.

They were separate legs tied separately around the waist – not a not a very sturdy arrangement, as one woman found out the hard way in 1820:

“They are the ugliest things I ever saw: I will never put them on again. I dragged my dress in the dirt for fear someone would spy them. My finest dimity pair with real Swiss lace is quite useless to me for I lost one leg and did not deem it proper to pick it up, and so walked off leaving it in the street behind me, and the lace had cost six shillings a yard…’ 

An embarrassing disaster for the lady, and a source of amusement for everyone else.”

My final costume was a very ornate masquerade costume which was commissioned for a friend as it was based on the coronation gown for Empress Josephine – wife of Napoleon Bonaparte who was crowned in 1801 – it was created in beautiful velvet with gold trimming.

I received the message below after my talk –

“Many thanks for coming to our Guild meeting yesterday. You gave us a splendid afternoon, your costumes were lovely and we learned a lot about the fashion of Jane Austen`s time. The talk was delivered with enthusiasm and a delightful sense of humour. `Mr Darcy` was great too, an added bonus!”

We had a super afternoon presenting my Regency Talk and we were very pleased that the ladies enjoyed it too.

Last night we presented our Regency Talk and Costume Display for Heighton WI – Heighton is a very pretty village quite close to Newton Aycliffe.It was for a special WI event called a friendship evening and we were happy to present the entertainment.

The ladies enjoyed special cake and gateaux baked specially for the event  – enjoyed with prosecco wine. We were of course asked to join them however an alcoholic beverage is possibly not the best idea prior to presenting a costume talk!

I presented my Regency Talk which included costumes inspired by  Jane Austen and Empress Josephine among others.

After the talk I was pleased to offer a question and answer session.

One of the very interesting questions included –

What types of lace were used in the regency period? 

We will be returning to Heighton WI to present my new talk “Marie Antoinette and what she wore to the Revolution” – we are certainly looking forward to it!

With Ann at Thropton WI

Earlier this week we presented our Tudor Talk with costume display for Thropton WI. Thropton is a very pretty village in Northumberland which is next to the picturesque town of Rothbury.

We were located in the newly refurbished Thropton memorial Hall – a lovely venue with perfect facilities for our talk- a large stage, a spacious hall and plenty of changing rooms.

The ladies really enjoyed our talk and sent the feedback below

The ladies also had quite a few interesting questions – 

What is one of the differences between the making of film, theatre and TV costumes?

In my opinion one of the main differences is that theatre costumes aren’t usually seen close up so they don’t need to be so detailed – for example embroidery on a stomacher for Queen Elizabeth I could be artfully glued with jewels and gold paint could be sprayed on to give an impression of embroidery as the first row of the audience in a traditional theatre is usually quite a distance away. In a TV production or film the embroidery needs to be more realistic as the dress can be seen in more detail- intimacy is gained through camera angles and close ups. I noticed in the recent TV series “The White Queen” starring Max Irons that the actress playing Elizabeth Woodville had a zip at the back of her dress- not a good look considering the first zips were invented hundreds of years later! 

The White Queen TV Drama

Re-enactment Costumes are different again – they need to be accurate close up – right down to the type of thread used to sew the seams – no polyester/cotton thread – it must be pure cotton! This type of costume is not the type I would wear as re-enacters are not allowed to use make up or modern hair straighteners  – which wouldn’t suit me!

Do I visit exhibitions of extant costumes?

Of course I do – I love seeing any type of costumes.  I recently visited two costume exhibitions while on holiday in Harrogate. I visited Normanby Hall- a beautiful 300 acre estate set in the heart of North Lincolnshire. Normanby Hall’s costume gallery featured the exhibition ‘Victorian Vogue’.

http://www.tudortalkandcatwalk.com/normandby-hall-haute-couture/

I have included photographs of the display and more information on my website – to read more just click the link above..

It took items from Normanby’s extensive costume collection to document changes in fashion from the 1840’s to 1890’s.

I also visited a fabulous new Costume Exhibition at York Castle Museum called ‘Shaping the Body’. An iron corset, crotch-less pantaloons from the time of Jane Austen, bum rolls and a killer dress are a few of the items that featured in this major new exhibition which charts the way fashion, food and fitness have shaped the body over the last 400 years. I am currently designing an 18th century Sacque Dress for my new talk Marie Antoinette and Fashion.

A 1775 Dress at York Castle Museum

There is a wonderful extant 1775 Sacque dress on display complete with a set of panniers (boned hooped underskirt).   It was wonderful to see an actual dress of the period similar to the pink silk Marie Antoinette gown I am currently making for my new talk.  The display gave an invaluable insight into the fabric, construction and design of the period!

My Pink Silk Marie Antoinette Gown

What did Tudor women wear under their underskirts?

Ladies of the 16th century wore nothing under their skirts as nothing was deemed essential, necessary or had even been thought of at that time.

In her book ‘Knickers, An Intimate Appraisal’, Rosemary Hawthorne records that before 1789 and the French Revolution that long skirts, a petticoat or two, a corset and linen chemise were the only forms of underwear women thought were desirable. As a result, women began covering their lower regions simply because it was warmer to wear some undergarments in the cool north European climate.

During the Regency era women began wearing pantalets. Pantalets originated in France in the early 19th century, and quickly spread to Britain and America. They were thought to have been based on men’s trousers. Pantalets were tubes of fabric which were not sewn together which they tied around the waist.

At Thropton WI

Is the Henry VIII clothing comfortable to wear?

I have asked my husband this question today and he gave this reply

“It is a fairly comfortable costume to wear and not particularly restrictive”.  There is no boning in this costume just some padding in the sleeves and body of the gold doublet. There is also copious padding  in the top of the sleeves of the outer robe – Tudor gentlemen liked to both emulate and flatter their their stout monarch by adding padding to their clothing.

“The costume does to seem to become heavier after being worn for about an hour” Today we are not used to wearing such heavy clothing on a day to day basis – we usually dress for comfort the exception being a formal event like a Wedding , ladies may wear a boned corset to change their shape and gentleman a stiff high necked shirt.

Mick as King Henry VIII

“The costume can make you feel very hot during a costume event particularly when worn in the summer months.” The Henry VIII costume becomes hot and uncomfortable quite quickly. There are at least four layers of clothing on the torso alone – the shirt, the padded doublet, the  jerkin and finally the very heavy robe of velvet, trimmed with fur and lined with satin. I have read that the climate in the Tudor period was on average quite a lot colder than it is today, during James I’s reign the Thames froze completely, people skated and had fairs on it!

 “The shoes are very comfortable”  They have been commissioned from Pilgrim Shoes. They are designed in soft black leather slashed with gold silk puffs. They were made to measure for a very reasonable price. In fact my husband had to stand on a piece of paper and draw round both feet- the papers were sent to Pilgrim shoes and the shoes that were sent are very comfortable. I would not hesitate to recommend them.

http://www.pilgrimshoes.co.uk/

Finally he said “The tights/hosen do feel awkward at times” I suppose as my husband is used to wearing modern trousers every day tights would feel rather odd to a gentleman!

Talk at Thropton

Did I present a display of costumes at Belsay Hall?

Yes – I have presented two large displays of my Tudor Costumes for English Heritage at Belsay Hall in Northumberland  – other venues for my displays have included Raby Castle, The Royal Armouries in Leeds , Lauriston Castle and Kedleston Hall.

I also presented nine- yes nine! Tudor Fashion Shows over a bank holiday weekend at Belsay Hall.  It was very hard work but my team and I really enjoyed it!

Costume Display at Belsay Hall

Do we present talks to mixed groups – ladies and gentlemen?

We do indeed present talks to mixed groups of Ladies and Gentleman.  Not only women are interested in history and costume!

Admittedly we present the majority of our talks to ladies groups however have presented a large number of events to the general public including The Royal Armouries in Leeds, Belsay Hall and Kedleston Hall.  We also presents events for the U3A (University of the Third Age) and there are usually an even mix of ladies and gentlemen . For our Regency Talk at the Army and Navy Club in London to commemorate to bicentenary of the Battle of-Waterloo there were no ladies present at all and the gentleman said they really enjoyed it!

Costume Display at Raby Castle

Where do I source my fabrics?

I use a large amount fabric mainly silk for my costumes. I used to buy James Hare Silk which is amazing however this has become very expensive – I need at least 10 yards for a Tudor Gown which can cost quite a lot.  So I now buy my silk from India for a much more reasonable price- the only problem is that it isn’t very wide – only 44 inches.  I am currently making a Marie Antoinette Gown that required 16 yards of pure silk brocade and managed to buy it from a fabric retailer based  in India for a very reasonable price!    http://www.puresilks.us/

If anyone would like a list of my suppliers I for fabric or haberdashery I would be happy to email them a copy.

Thropton WI

We really enjoyed presenting our talk for Thropton and hope to see them again in the future – thank you Ann for all your help and hospitality!

I hope you have enjoyed reading this post – if you have leave a comment – thank you

“Enter the World of Jane Austen’ Regency Talk and Costume Display”

I presented my Jane Austen Regency Talk with Costume Display on 9 April 2016 for the Border Textile Group in Foulden.

They have published a very interesting article about my costume event on their website – I thought you may like to view it.

It contains a number of interesting facts from my talk as well as pictures taken of my costumes and myself during the event.

I included a quick demonstration on my talk entitled – “How to make an excellent Regency Bonnet in a couple of hours”   also included on their website is a picture of one of the members wearing my Regency Bonnet.

She loved it so much after my talk decided to go home and make one herself – I am looking forward to receiving a photo of her creation!

Hope you enjoy reading the article!

With very many thanks to Annie Robinson for taking the photographs 

It is the 400th anniversary of the death of William Shakespeare this year and his life and works  will be celebrated over the country.

William Shakespeare  was born in 1564  and died in April 1616 He was an English poet, playwright and actor and was widely regarded as the greatest writer in the English language and the world’s pre-eminent dramatist.

He is often called England’s national poet and the “Bard of Avon”. His plays have been translated into every major living language and are performed more often than those of any other playwright. In 2016 celebrations will commence in the United Kingdom and across the world to honour Shakespeare and his work.

Newcastle City Library will be joining in these celebrations and I am pleased to announce we have been booked to present our 16th Century inspired Fashion Show at Newcastle City Library.

We will present our show on Saturday 14 May  – our event is to be included as part of the popular ‘Late Shows’ which take place during the evening in the main library which is located in Newcastle City Centre.

We have already presented a number of events at the venue including costume talks and shows – it is a superb venue with wonderful facilities.We will present our Tudor Fashion Show show on the evening of 14 May- times to be confirmed.

My exciting show includes a eight exquisite costumes I have designed and created worn by models. They are accompanied by beautiful period music, a brief history of each historical figure and a talk about the design and construction of each costume.

My fashion show team consists of of eight people which includes four/five models.The show is both informative and interesting as well as humorous.

Our show presents King Henry VIII in full regalia arriving to a fanfare of trumpets, Queen Elizabeth I in an elaborate gold silk gown with decorative jewelled ruff, Queen Anne Boleyn wearing an elegant  blue silk/gold gown worn with a pearl trimmed French hood.

A stunning silk Peacock Blue dress with partlet for the young Mary Queen of Scots, a very attractive rose silk gown embroidered with gold for Queen Catherine Howard.

Also included are a stunning silver silk gown worn by Queen Jane Seymour or an elegant court costume with doublet, hat and sword for King James VI of Scotland. Mary Queen of Scots taking off her velvet robes to reveal her elegant execution gown is the dramatic finale to the show.

Please join us on 14 May for this celebration of Shakespeare – I am sure you will enjoy the show.

For more information click –  http://thelateshows.org.uk/2016/newcastle-city-library

Muncaster Regency Talk

Muncaster is a beautiful Castle near Ravenglass in Cumbria.  It is a historic haunted building set in 70 acres of stunning wild gardens set against the Lake District fells – it is also home to the Hawk & Owl Centre.

Muncaster Castle

We were booked to present our Regency Talk with Costume Display ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’ on Thursday 27 August and Friday 28 August 2015 as part of the ‘Living History Week’.

The wonderful hall

We presented our talks in the wonderful grand hall – a fabulous setting for a period costume display with beautiful portraits lining the walls. During my talk I used a portrait of a lady in a beautiful silver gown to show the type of garment which was worn prior to the regency era and to illustrate how the change in style was so dramatic.

Portrait of a lady in a silver gown on display in the Great Hall

Throughout the week Muncaster have had a range of history events to keep the whole family entertained – the line-up for 2015 includes the Herlid Vikings, the Iron Shepherds (Norman-era re-enactment), the 19th Foot Green Howards Crimean War and of course Renaissance Costumes with our Regency-era dresses. 

The 19th Foot Green Howards

Also included were the Red Wyverns Re-enactment Society and the Tudor Alchemist.

We stayed in the Coachman’s Quarters – a lovely period building overnight and also met members of the 19th Foot Howards Crimean War Group who were camped in the grounds.

19th Foot Green Howards

Ladies from the Crimean War group attended my talk on the Thursday and said they really enjoyed it.  The next day the ladies invited me to their camp and I had a great time chatting to them about their lovely costumes. they also kindly lent me a Victorian jacket for the photograph!

Sitting with the lovely ladies of the 19th Foot Green Howards

Apparently they were having rabbit stew on the Thursday and boiled gammon the next day- all cooked on an authentic open fire.  Sadly the tents were a bit too authentic for me I preferred the Coachman’s quartets and staying in an en-suite room!

My Regency Gentleman

My thanks to Jo and Bronwen at Muncaster Castle for all their help and support in presenting the our events – not forgetting Rachel a super girl who worked in the accommodation office.

My Jane Austen Costume

We had a really great couple of days  – Muncaster is a fabulous Castle and the staff are great.

I would love to return to Muncaster in the future to present more events and also really hope to meet the lovely  ladies of the Green Howards again.

Following a very successful ‘Tudor Fashion Show ‘ presented at the Royal Armouries in Leeds I am pleased to  announce that ‘Julia Renaissance Costumes’ has been booked again to present a number of costume events.

My events are to be included as part of the celebrations of the bi-centenary of the Battle of Waterloo which took place in 1815.

A display of my romantic Regency fashions from the time of Waterloo which will be on show in the galleries.

To compliment the display there will also be a number of costume presentations –

Regency Costume Talk/Lecture with Display-

A very interesting, lively, humorous and informative lecture about the design and construction of my Regency period costumes. Five beautifully dressed mannequins will accompany the talk.  Included are an ornate gold-encrusted court gown inspired by Empress Josephine.  A very pretty white cotton afternoon dress fit for Jane Austen worn with bonnet, chemisette and spencer. Also included is  a sumptuous  lilac silk ball gown embellished with gold and lilac guipure lace worn with a turban, fan and gloves  – a stunning outfit fit for the Netherfield Ball! Regency underwear, A morning gown and accessories worn during this period will also be included. Not forgetting a personal appearance by a Regency Gentleman in frock coat, waistcoat and breeches!

My talk will be presented on Tuesday 26 May and will be repeated on Friday 29 May – times are to be confirmed.

I do hope you will join us.

For more information please click

https://www.royalarmouries.org/events/calendar/2015-05-26/something-different-every-day

The excerpt below is taken from the WI Website –

“Half-Yearly Council Meeting March 30th 2015

Gill, Doreen, Jill and Ann all went to Kendal Town Hall on a wild evening for the Half-Yearly Council meeting.They were entertained by Julia Soares-McCormick (ably assisted by her husband Mick) with her talk entitled ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’.There were four models on stage showing different costumes from the regency times: underwear, morning dress, afternoon dress and wonderful evening wear.

Enjoying a coffee before the event

 

 Julia told us about her training in stage design and explained in great detail all about the different costumes.  She had made them all herself and you can see how wonderful they are in the pictures below. 

At the start of the evening in front of the costumes

 

Mick standing next to one of the outfits”

 

(I have also added a couple of my pictures I took while the members were arriving  –  I thought you might like to see them  as they show the interior of the beautiful Town Hall.)

   

I have created a Regency Outfit which is to be worn in 2015 as part of my talk ‘Enter the World of Jane Austen’. This elegant outfit comprises of a shirt, trousers, waistcoat, coat and cravat. I have completed the shirt, trousers and waistcoat and still have to make the coat and cravat but thought you may be interested in seeing pictures of the costume so far. (Click any photograph for them to enlarge).

My Regency Shirt was created in the  1790-1830 in the English Style’ with period construction techniques.

The shirts were usually made in unbleached or partially bleached linen. It is interesting to note that  ‘Irish’ – a kind of flax linen is sometimes mentioned during this period for shirts. Although the shirts were usually plain – occasionally ‘checks’ such as blue-white and brown/white were used for work shirts. I have created this attractive shirt in fine linen fabric in an off-white shade. The fabric was washed in hand hot water twice prior to cutting as the material can shrink up to 10%.

While the choice of white material might seem go unnoticed today, in Beau Brummell’s time the wearing of white shirts, waistcoats and neck cloths was an indication of a man’s money.  In order to maintain an immaculate appearance in a filthy city or the country, these easy to dirty clothes would have to be changed at lot which meant a lot of laundering charges affordable only by the well off.

The pattern of a man’s shirt was relatively simple. It was made from a series of squares and rectangles sewn together to form an unfitted and comfortable undergarment.

The neckline is formed on the body by folding a rectangle of fabric lengthwise – it is then cut into a ‘T’ shape to form the opening for the head. There are also triangular gussets sewn to the edges of the neckline at each side with shoulder straps stitched over the top. The neckline is then gathered and drawn up to the correct size to fit the collar.  The collar cut twice the width required and then folded down in half and fastened by two buttons and tiny hand worked buttonholes.

The shirt sleeves are rectangles of fabric gathered into wristbands fastened by a single bone button and a hand sewn buttonhole. The cuff is decorated with top stitching – it was often made with replaceable cuffs (so the shirt would last longer).

The sleeves have a square of linen which is sewn to the top of each sleeve so when the shirt underarm seams are sewn together it creates a gusset to allow the arm full range of movement.  The shirt sleeves are then gathered and sewn to fit the shoulder seam. After the side seam is stitched a rectangle of fabric called a sleeve binder is sewn to the shoulder seam inside to strengthen and finish the shirt. The shirt also has side slits which are hand hemmed. The sleeve seam is dropped  – that is to say not placed at the top of the arm as are the seams in a modern dress shirt.

it is a very interesting fact that although the shirt frill at the front was very fashionable at one time it had fallen out of favour by this time as the cravat usually fully covered it Older gentlemen who were more conservative clung to the old insignia of rank with a ‘frilled shirt’. This however was usually worn only for  the evening and by 1800 had usually completely disappeared.

Although it can’t be seen in the photographs the shirt is very voluminous – it reaches to the gentleman’s knees and is tucked into the trousers.

In the photographs the gathered cuff, shoulder straps and dropped shoulder can clearly be seen. It is certainly a very attractive garment!

Regency Gentleman’s Waistcoat

I have created a beautiful silk damask and linen waistcoat as part of my regency Gentleman’s outfit.

To make this garment I have based the design on a single- breasted gentleman’s waistcoat circa 1790 – 1815. It has a standing collar and six buttons. The pattern is inspired by features and construction details from numerous waistcoats and contemporary patterns and illustrations.

During this period only plain colours for a shirts, jackets and trousers were deemed fashionable so with his waistcoat the Regency man was allowed to choose a pattern. Any colour of fabric can be used as long as it is a colour that can be created from natural dyes. Fabrics used for waistcoats include cotton, silk, wool or linen. Sometimes they were embroidered, as they had been in the 18th Century, or else they could have patterns woven into the material. . I have used very high quality woven 100% silk damask in shades of black and fawn.

The lining for regency Waistcoats was usually a nice quality cotton or linen in a natural light tan or cream – I have used tan coloured light brown linen which was a remnant left over from making the Regency trousers.(see below).

Although most of the waistcoat was hidden beneath the frock coat, the fabric could be seen along the edges of the front lapel and collar and from beneath the bottom front panels of the frock coat.   Regency period is all about elegant simplicity, no big floral type prints or anything too shiny. A regency waistcoat is also short, it reaches about an inch below the natural waist, it is not long like the 18th Century styles that hang to the hips. A regency waistcoat does not have have points – it is also a straight line across the front.

Please note during this period the waistcoat is intended to fit 1” below the natural waistline so the it will just cover the top of the trousers. There must be no gap between the waistcoat and trouser. It fits snugly and smoothly over the body so not creating bulk under the jacket. If required tapes can be attached to the back to tighten the fit across the chest and stomach.

It was usual to make the back of the silk waistcoat out of linen or a cheaper fabric as it would not be been seen  – the regency waistcoat was never worn without a coat.

For the interfacing have used light canvas which is period correct. I

Before I started I made a toile (a mock up of the body of the waistcoat) in cheap calico. A toile [“twahl”] – or a muslin – is an initial mock up of a garment made in cheap fabric so you can check and alter how the pattern fits your body before cutting into your nice fabric.

The first job is was to attach light canvas interfacing to fronts and apply stay tape (1/4” wide) along the hem line of the front edge  – this was to prevent stretching. I then hand stitched the lapel and front facings along the front and bottom edge. . The lapels are faced with silk only where the collar lapels turn back – the rest of the front lining is linen (see picture below).

Buttonholes are then worked down the front of the left front – I have sewed six neat buttonholes – not my favourite job I must admit!

The back waistcoat edges are then pressed under and attached to the fronts at the shoulder seams. The collar is interfaced with canvas and sewn with small parallel stitches (pad stitches) to help the collar curve and keep it stiff. The collar is then stitched to the neckline.

The collar is constructed to look the same inside and out – with the inner and outer collar edges even and the edges sewn together with over-stitches.  This creates a finished look from the front edges of a standing collar from any angle.

The lining was prick stitched to the outer front the full length of the arm scythe with lining and facing hemmed along the collar seam. The back lining edges are turned under and the back is attached to the front at the side seams.

The back lining is neatly hand stitched along the side seams, arm scythes and lower hem edge and the buttons attached. Bone, metal or wood buttons can be used during this period. However metal buttons were usually used for coats only so I have used these pretty buttons in natural coloured wood for my waistcoat. I think they look very attractive and tone with the fawn tone of the fabric.

Waistcoats are usually worn with the collar standing at this period. Some had pockets and some did not – it is I suppose a personal preference. I prefer the style without pockets for a smoother line.

Voilà a beautiful Regency Waistcoat and believe it or not it fitted perfectly first time – it was well worth the time spent making a toile!

Regency Gentleman’s Trousers

I have created these Regency Gentlemen’s Trousers   they have a high waist and were worn from 1790 to about 1810.

By the turn of the 19th Century, breeches, pantaloons and trousers worn by all men were sewn with a flap in front called a fall front. This flap was always held in place by two or three buttons at the top. No belts were worn instead breeches, pantaloons and trousers were held up by tight-fitting waists, which were adjusted by ties sewn in back of the waist.

As waists rose to the belly button after 1810, braces(also known as suspenders)  were used to hold the garment up. They were designed for the waistband to be worn just under the natural waist.

The Trousers were slit up the seam for a few inches above the ankle as this allowed the foot to get through the leg of the pants. Trousers were made of wool, linen or cotton. Though they were at first only appropriate for day-wear they eventually gained acceptance for wearing in the evening as well.

The back had rather full fabric which I have pleated into the waistband at the back –  seats were baggy to allow a man to rise easily from a sitting position. They also could have a drawstring tightening at the back (the behind should never be seen since it’s always covered by tails). My trousers were inspired by the style of several pairs of trousers from late 1700’s and early 1800’s. To be honest they do look strange and full at the back –  when compared to modern trousers but nevertheless are correct for the regency period.

These trousers have the waistband in two sections, left and right with a lace tie at the back and buttons in front. There is fall closing (which unbuttons to let the flap down) and below fall flaps called bearers. There are also rectangles of fabric called binders which finish the edges of the the fabric cut to create the flap. A pocket is placed on each side which has  button closures. There are also short opening at the ankle seams called vents and linings in the fall and waistband. Legs are cut on the straight grain with no pressed creases!

The bottom edge of the waistband sits at the natural waist and the  ankles are loose and finish at the ankle bone not the shoe as in modern trousers. Suspenders or braces must be used to hold them up.

Fabrics used during the regency period included cotton, flax, hemp, linen, wool and cotton/linen mix. Colours included yellow-tan, blue various browns, white and pale colours for fine dress or a variety of other deep tones worn with a dark blue, green, or brown coat. I have used a fawn shade of medium weight linen with black cotton for the lining.

The trousers were assembled as a left and right half and then joined at the crotch seam.

I lined the bearers (also known as under-fall) and stitched two buttonholes on the left side of the bearer only.

I attached the fall binders and bearers to the trouser fronts. I then attached the fall linings.

I made the pockets in black cotton fabric and attached them to the trouser front. I then worked buttonholes in the pocket flaps and fall binders and stitched the bottom edges of the pocket together on the inside.

I then stitched the side seams of the trousers and hemmed the ankle vents. The waistband was lined and attached  – I pleated the fabric to fit at the back – about eight pleats each side.I left the back open (for the lacing).

I sewed buttonholes in the left waistband and stitched the inseams and crotch seam. Finally I worked two eyelet holes into both sides of the back waistband and. threaded through a tie for fastening. I then attached 9 buttons!

I also made a pair of simple braces of brown coloured woven strapping attached to the trousers by four wooden buttons – two at the front and two at the back. The cross at the back is back stitched in a diamond shape to prevent the braces from slipping off the shoulders.

The trousers fit very well and certainly look the part with the waistcoat and shirt.

I have included only basic construction notes in this post however If you would like to recreate these garments yourself I would certainly recommend Kannik’s Korner patterns which include full and comprehensive instructions. For more information I would be happy for you to contact me.

By the way just a note – I am currently searching for some period glasses as Specsavers aren’t quite the part -if anyone can help please contact me!

My next project is to design and make a regency Gentleman’s coat and cravat to complete this costume – I will be posting pictures when finished so please watch this space!

Today we presented a Tudor Talk with Costume Display at Auckland Castle in the Long Dining Hall – it was an absolutely fabulous setting for my costumes.

The Long Dining Hall is a lovely room on the first floor with large windows that flooded my costume display with beautiful natural light. A perfect setting for my display which was surrounded by period portraits in an authentic setting. In terms of size, the Long Dining Room has much the same impressive proportions as the Throne Room it adjoins.The room was originally designed to be the Bishops dining room but when Bishop Trevor arrived at Auckland Castle, he extended the room in 1760 to make it into an art gallery. He was also responsible for the fine moulded ceiling which features his coat of arms in the centre.   The windows to the south look towards the triple-arched entrance to the Castle and Chapel, and across the wooded valley of the Park.

My husband Mick mentioned during my talk that the Tudors/Elizabethans used a lot of pins to fasten their clothes .The stomacher on my Gold Silk Elizabeth I Gown is held in place with pins. Considering the scant current mention of pins in costume and clothing articles, it may be hard to believe how common these simple items were to the wardrobes of the Elizabethans. They were made in many sizes, from the “great verthingale pynnes” used to hold heavy skirts, to the smallest pins used to hold veils and delicate fabrics. Please  find below  – pin purchases for Queen Elizabeth in a six-month period:

“Item to Roberts Careles our Pynner for xviij [18] thousand great verthingale Pynnes xx [20] thowsand great Velvet Pynnes and nyne thowsande smale hed Pynnes and xix [19] thowsand Small hed Pynnes all of our great warderobe” (Warrant dated 20 Oct, 1565)”.

Pins were used to hold skirt flounces, farthingale boning, ruffs, cuffs, partlets, veils, jewels, and generally everything that needed to stay in place. They were carefully kept, and straightened and sharpened periodically. Pins were not left in clothing  but stored in pincushions.

While Elizabeth and her Court clearly used vast quantities of pins, the lower classes would not have need quite so many to keep their simpler clothes in place, and a handful of pins would suffice to dress a working woman – hence the origin of the term – pin money.  In terms of the modern-day re-enactor, a small pincushion will usually be sufficient for all but the most elaborate of outfits.

A lovely lady showed me  a photograph of a very attractive costume in pale gold with a ‘stomacher’ that she had designed and created for her daughter for a ‘Tudor Day’ at school. It was a lovely costume nicely made – I must say I was most impressed!

My audience numbered over fifty people and after my talk visitors stated that  it was “absolutely brilliant” and that “my depth of knowledge of both costumes and history was a credit to me”.

I have added some photographs of my husband Mick as Henry VIII standing next to the famous ‘Paradise Bed’ supposedly used by his parents King Henry VII and  Elizabeth of York.  Also included are portraits of King Henry VIII, King Henry VII and Elizabeth of York which are currently on loan. The photograph of me was courtesy of Jane Hall – thank you Jane.

If you are interested in the Tudors and history in general this exhibition is well worth a visit! I would like to thank all the staff at Auckland Castle for their help and hospitality today – I have to say we really enjoyed presenting our talk in such a beautiful venue. 

[See image gallery at www.tudortalkandcatwalk.com]