My talk includes a fabulous display of exquisite gowns decorated with pearls and semi-precious stones, elaborate headdresses, jewellery and fans.

Perfect background for fans of historical fiction.

This event will take place at Community Hub Central, Hartlepool. 

Please note: Tickets will not be issued for any of these events, and you do not need to bring along a booking confirmation. When you arrive at the event, please give a member of staff the name of the person who booked for your party to gain entry.

If you are having trouble booking online, please phone ARC box office on 01642 525199 to book over the phone.

Hope you will join me for this very special event!

arconline.co.uk/whats-on/crossing-the-tees/tudor-costumes-with-julia-soares-mccormick?fbclid=IwAR0net2TiUvWfq5d_optw1K77quDToO5aX8mMwrjoYsxLRKFtSk–xosujY

Last Friday  21 October we presented our Tudor Talk for a ladies group in Brancepeth.

My talk included Tudor Underwear and costumes inspired by King Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth I and Mary Queen of Scots.

Quite a few questions after my talk were relating to the Tudor Under garments and laundering of the clothes.

What did they wear under their outer garments?

Could the clothing be washed?

Did the ladies wear any type of knickers?

How were the skirts held out?

The chemise, called a “smock” or “shift” in the 16th century, was a simple garment was worn next to the skin to protect clothing from sweat and body oils. As Elizabethans rarely indulged in full-body baths, and as the clothing of the middle and upper classes was not the kind one could pound on a river rock or scrub regularly with ashes and lye soap, the chemise was vital to Elizabethan costume.Smocks were made of fine linen, as fine as the wearer could afford. Many of the better smocks were made of what we now call “handkerchief-weight” linen. Lawn, cypress and holland were three 16th c. varieties of sheer linen used for fine smocks.

These smocks hung to just about knee to calf-length, on average. This is a square -necked gathered smock – it has a  very voluminous body and sleeves, I have gathered the fabric into a square neckband and wristbands. It was sometimes pulled through the slashing of the outer garments during this period.Resistance to fungus and bacteria – Linen has natural antibacterial properties and that is why it is used in medicine. It also acts against the bacteria that make you smell. Regarding washing of the garments – the silk and heavily embellished fabrics could not be washed.  They outer garments were heavy to don and doff, stiff and uncomfortable to wear and to be honest very smelly.  Without the essential chemise next to the skin they would have been even worse

This corset has been inspired by the corset found on the ‘effigy’ of Elizabeth the First. I have designed a tabbed waist corset, which is the type which is the easiest to wear. The tabs distribute pressure so the corset does not ‘dig in’ at the waist. The Elizabethan corset gave a period shape to the body and had straps to help lift the breasts. It was made of linen (I have constructed it in cotton twill or linen. Spring steel boning has been inserted into channels to give strength.  During the 16th century corsets were stiffened with whalebone, reeds, steel or rope. I have used binding on the edges as Elizabeth’s corset was bound with leather. The lacing holes are reinforced with sturdy cotton thread and the corset is laced with cord.

To create the correct shape for clothes of the period a Spanish Farthingale was worn. This was a bell-shaped hoop skirt worn under the skirts of well-to-do women during the Tudor and Elizabethan era. From 1530 to 1580, the farthingale played an important part in shaping the fashionable silhouette. (First Farthingale worn by Joan of Portugal to hide pregnancy – had two illegitimate children)

The Spanish Farthingale, as its name suggests, originated in Spain. Tradition holds that the Spanish Farthingale arrived in England in the 1520s, introduced by Katharine of Aragon, Henry VIII’s future queen. It is true that, beginning in the 1530s, clear evidence of hoop skirts worn by English noblewomen begin to appear in court paintings and portraits.

The pattern for this farthingale is from Juan de Alcega’s Tailor’s Pattern Book, published in 1589. It has been created from sections of calico – which are cut and then pieced together.  The sections of fabric are placed so that no bias seams are sewn to each other. This was to eliminate the sagging which two bias seams sewn together would inevitably experience. I have cut additional pieces of fabric, 2 inches wide, to match the length of each piece of boning to create casings for the stiffening.After everything is sewn together, the farthingale would have been gathered at the top and the raw edges bound with a strip of fabric.  It is reasonable to say that the opening would have been in the back or in the front for a front-lacing corset.Three materials were known to be used for stiffening farthingales in Elizabeth’s time: rope, bent rope, and whalebone. Most recreation farthingales are made using hoop skirt boning. Hoop skirt boning is 1/2-inch-wide stiffened canvas or plastic with spring steel along the edges. It is very stiff and can hold out the heaviest of skirts, yet is lighter than other boning materials. After the boning is inserted the casings are tacked close.  The boning can however be easily removed so the farthingale can be washed.

A Bumroll, which, as its name suggests, was a roll tied around the bum, was an essential piece of Tudor and Elizabethan underwear. In Elizabethan times, it was more commonly called a “rowle”; “bumroll” is the modern term for the item. A bumroll is made from a crescent shape of non-stretchy fabric such as calico which is stuffed with wadding and has ties attached to the ends.

The first hard evidence of a separate roll worn around the hips are a reference to them in Elizabeth’s wardrobe accounts from 1580. It was tied around the hips to make a woman’s skirt swell out becomingly at the waistline before falling to the ground. It was used throughout the 16th century and into the 17th, and considered an essential aid to fashionable dress. Elizabeth I wore one with her gold gowns.

Gold Elizabeth I Gown

By the way no type of panties or knickers were worn – If you are interested – the first type of this type of underwear were in a form of leggings or long drawers, they originated in France in the early 19th century, and quickly spread to Britain and America. Without the correct underwear, the shape of the dress of the period would be unable to be achieved so it is a very important part of the costumes.

You simply can’t look like Lady Jane Grey, Anne Boleyn or Mary Queen of Scots without the right foundation garments. If you make the attempt, the most you’ll achieve is the look of a poor and cheaply made fancy dress costume: A lumpy and ill-fitting mess. It’s impossible to achieve the lines of an Elizabethan gown without a corset (as well as a host of other “underpinnings” such as bumrolls, farthingales, or hoops).

I would like to thank the super ladies of the group especially Janet for their help in setting up the costume display.

I had a great time chatting to them all afterwards – I also enjoyed a couple of cakes, fruit cheese and two glasses of Elder flower wine with them as well  – beautiful!

We really appreciated your kind hospitality and hope we meet again!

With Ann at Thropton WI

Earlier this week we presented our Tudor Talk with costume display for Thropton WI. Thropton is a very pretty village in Northumberland which is next to the picturesque town of Rothbury.

We were located in the newly refurbished Thropton memorial Hall – a lovely venue with perfect facilities for our talk- a large stage, a spacious hall and plenty of changing rooms.

The ladies really enjoyed our talk and sent the feedback below

The ladies also had quite a few interesting questions – 

What is one of the differences between the making of film, theatre and TV costumes?

In my opinion one of the main differences is that theatre costumes aren’t usually seen close up so they don’t need to be so detailed – for example embroidery on a stomacher for Queen Elizabeth I could be artfully glued with jewels and gold paint could be sprayed on to give an impression of embroidery as the first row of the audience in a traditional theatre is usually quite a distance away. In a TV production or film the embroidery needs to be more realistic as the dress can be seen in more detail- intimacy is gained through camera angles and close ups. I noticed in the recent TV series “The White Queen” starring Max Irons that the actress playing Elizabeth Woodville had a zip at the back of her dress- not a good look considering the first zips were invented hundreds of years later! 

The White Queen TV Drama

Re-enactment Costumes are different again – they need to be accurate close up – right down to the type of thread used to sew the seams – no polyester/cotton thread – it must be pure cotton! This type of costume is not the type I would wear as re-enacters are not allowed to use make up or modern hair straighteners  – which wouldn’t suit me!

Do I visit exhibitions of extant costumes?

Of course I do – I love seeing any type of costumes.  I recently visited two costume exhibitions while on holiday in Harrogate. I visited Normanby Hall- a beautiful 300 acre estate set in the heart of North Lincolnshire. Normanby Hall’s costume gallery featured the exhibition ‘Victorian Vogue’.

http://www.tudortalkandcatwalk.com/normandby-hall-haute-couture/

I have included photographs of the display and more information on my website – to read more just click the link above..

It took items from Normanby’s extensive costume collection to document changes in fashion from the 1840’s to 1890’s.

I also visited a fabulous new Costume Exhibition at York Castle Museum called ‘Shaping the Body’. An iron corset, crotch-less pantaloons from the time of Jane Austen, bum rolls and a killer dress are a few of the items that featured in this major new exhibition which charts the way fashion, food and fitness have shaped the body over the last 400 years. I am currently designing an 18th century Sacque Dress for my new talk Marie Antoinette and Fashion.

A 1775 Dress at York Castle Museum

There is a wonderful extant 1775 Sacque dress on display complete with a set of panniers (boned hooped underskirt).   It was wonderful to see an actual dress of the period similar to the pink silk Marie Antoinette gown I am currently making for my new talk.  The display gave an invaluable insight into the fabric, construction and design of the period!

My Pink Silk Marie Antoinette Gown

What did Tudor women wear under their underskirts?

Ladies of the 16th century wore nothing under their skirts as nothing was deemed essential, necessary or had even been thought of at that time.

In her book ‘Knickers, An Intimate Appraisal’, Rosemary Hawthorne records that before 1789 and the French Revolution that long skirts, a petticoat or two, a corset and linen chemise were the only forms of underwear women thought were desirable. As a result, women began covering their lower regions simply because it was warmer to wear some undergarments in the cool north European climate.

During the Regency era women began wearing pantalets. Pantalets originated in France in the early 19th century, and quickly spread to Britain and America. They were thought to have been based on men’s trousers. Pantalets were tubes of fabric which were not sewn together which they tied around the waist.

At Thropton WI

Is the Henry VIII clothing comfortable to wear?

I have asked my husband this question today and he gave this reply

“It is a fairly comfortable costume to wear and not particularly restrictive”.  There is no boning in this costume just some padding in the sleeves and body of the gold doublet. There is also copious padding  in the top of the sleeves of the outer robe – Tudor gentlemen liked to both emulate and flatter their their stout monarch by adding padding to their clothing.

“The costume does to seem to become heavier after being worn for about an hour” Today we are not used to wearing such heavy clothing on a day to day basis – we usually dress for comfort the exception being a formal event like a Wedding , ladies may wear a boned corset to change their shape and gentleman a stiff high necked shirt.

Mick as King Henry VIII

“The costume can make you feel very hot during a costume event particularly when worn in the summer months.” The Henry VIII costume becomes hot and uncomfortable quite quickly. There are at least four layers of clothing on the torso alone – the shirt, the padded doublet, the  jerkin and finally the very heavy robe of velvet, trimmed with fur and lined with satin. I have read that the climate in the Tudor period was on average quite a lot colder than it is today, during James I’s reign the Thames froze completely, people skated and had fairs on it!

 “The shoes are very comfortable”  They have been commissioned from Pilgrim Shoes. They are designed in soft black leather slashed with gold silk puffs. They were made to measure for a very reasonable price. In fact my husband had to stand on a piece of paper and draw round both feet- the papers were sent to Pilgrim shoes and the shoes that were sent are very comfortable. I would not hesitate to recommend them.

http://www.pilgrimshoes.co.uk/

Finally he said “The tights/hosen do feel awkward at times” I suppose as my husband is used to wearing modern trousers every day tights would feel rather odd to a gentleman!

Talk at Thropton

Did I present a display of costumes at Belsay Hall?

Yes – I have presented two large displays of my Tudor Costumes for English Heritage at Belsay Hall in Northumberland  – other venues for my displays have included Raby Castle, The Royal Armouries in Leeds , Lauriston Castle and Kedleston Hall.

I also presented nine- yes nine! Tudor Fashion Shows over a bank holiday weekend at Belsay Hall.  It was very hard work but my team and I really enjoyed it!

Costume Display at Belsay Hall

Do we present talks to mixed groups – ladies and gentlemen?

We do indeed present talks to mixed groups of Ladies and Gentleman.  Not only women are interested in history and costume!

Admittedly we present the majority of our talks to ladies groups however have presented a large number of events to the general public including The Royal Armouries in Leeds, Belsay Hall and Kedleston Hall.  We also presents events for the U3A (University of the Third Age) and there are usually an even mix of ladies and gentlemen . For our Regency Talk at the Army and Navy Club in London to commemorate to bicentenary of the Battle of-Waterloo there were no ladies present at all and the gentleman said they really enjoyed it!

Costume Display at Raby Castle

Where do I source my fabrics?

I use a large amount fabric mainly silk for my costumes. I used to buy James Hare Silk which is amazing however this has become very expensive – I need at least 10 yards for a Tudor Gown which can cost quite a lot.  So I now buy my silk from India for a much more reasonable price- the only problem is that it isn’t very wide – only 44 inches.  I am currently making a Marie Antoinette Gown that required 16 yards of pure silk brocade and managed to buy it from a fabric retailer based  in India for a very reasonable price!    http://www.puresilks.us/

If anyone would like a list of my suppliers I for fabric or haberdashery I would be happy to email them a copy.

Thropton WI

We really enjoyed presenting our talk for Thropton and hope to see them again in the future – thank you Ann for all your help and hospitality!

I hope you have enjoyed reading this post – if you have leave a comment – thank you

King Henry VIII with Anne Boleyn and Jane Seymour

To launch the 2014 Winter Programme members of the National Trust were invited to a fashion show with a difference held in the atmospheric surroundings of Washington Old Hall.

I presented my Period Fashion show in this beautiful period building which is steeped in history. Washington Old Hall is a manor house located in the Washington area of Tyne and Wear. It lies in the centre of Washington, being surrounded by other villages.
The manor was the ancestral home of the family of George Washington, the first President of the United States.The name Washington goes back to Anglo-Saxon times. The Norman knight, William de Hertburn, settled on the manorial land here before 1183.  Another house was on the site at the time, and over the years the family improved it and added a hall. Parts of the original hall are still in existence, notably the west end arches of the great hall.

Queen Elizabeth I

Our show took place downstairs in the very beautiful hall – at one end of the hall the arches provided a very attractive backdrop for my costumes. It was commented upon how perfectly the dresses suited the venue and how they brought history to life! Wine and canapés were also served in the Liberty Hall upstairs.

A very nice lady at the show particularly loved the silver silk Jane Seymour Gown. She commented  “It it is absolutely perfect for  Queen Jane Seymour, the design of crosses in the fabric is perfectly suited to her pious nature” she also mentioned that Jane loved pearls. That is why I used pearls to embellish the bodice and underskirt of this very elegant gown.

I would like to thank Douglas the lovely gentleman who booked the show for all his help in making the show such a success as well as the very kind man who served myself and my team refreshments during the evening. Not forgetting my friend Diane who introduced Douglas to my work – Thank you all – without your help this event would not have taken place.

[See image gallery at www.tudortalkandcatwalk.com]

Washington Old Hall

We are presenting two Period Fashion Shows this month. I am very excited to announce that the first show at Killingworth is to be filmed and featured on television! The second show is to be presented at beautiful historic Washington Old Hall in Tyne and Wear!

My exciting and dynamic Period Fashion Show includes historically inspired costumes worn by models accompanied by beautiful period music. There is also a brief history of each historical figure and a talk about the design and construction of each costume. Our show includes Elizabeth I, Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Catherine Howard and Mary Queen of Scots taking off her velvet robes to reveal her elegant execution gown. 

Tudor Inspired Historical Costumes

We have been booked by North Tyneside Council to present our Tudor Fashion Show at the White Swan Centre in Killingworth on Thursday 25th September 2014. The Centre has excellent facilities and is used to present special events such as weddings and shows. It is an attractive airy building with beautiful natural light – a wonderful setting for our Show.

My Tudor Fashion Show at Killingworth is to be featured on television.  It is to be filmed by South Korean TV Station KBS – the Korean equivalent of the BBC. KBS produces award winning documentaries internationally. The documentary  is to be called ‘Fashionable’  – it will be filmed in UHD, the latest high definition and will be all about hidden and amazing history about fashions, focusing on Corsets and Renaissance Costumes.  We are very excited to be a part of this excellent production.

The show is to presented on Thursday 25 September 2014 at 7pm – for more information including details of how to book please visit the following-

http://www.friendsaction.co.uk/events/tudor-fashion-show

http://www.northtyneside.gov.uk/browse-display.shtml?p_ID=553544&p_subjectCategory=1298

Washington Old Hall

The following evening Friday 26 September we will presenting our Tudor Fashion Show again in the wonderful Washington Old Hall in Washington Village for the National Trust. Washington Old Hall is a Manor house associated with the family of George Washington, the first president of the USA. At the heart of the historic Washington village lies the picturesque stone manor house and its gardens which provide a tranquil oasis, reflecting gentry life following the turbulence of the English Civil War. The building incorporates parts of the original medieval home of George Washington’s direct ancestors, and it is from here that the family took their surname of ‘Washington’. It will provide a wonderful historical setting for my historically inspired costumes. I am really looking forward to presenting the show in such an amazing setting – for more information visit http://www.durhamnt.org.uk/socials.html

It is an very exciting time  – I do hope you will join us and become part of my costume events!

 A Tudor Fashion Show presented at St Mary’s Heritage Centre in Gateshead

We will present a ‘Tudor Fashion Show’ for Gateshead Council on Saturday 22nd February at 7pm in St Mary’s Heritage Centre.

St. Mary’s Heritage Centre is a unique and innovative visitor attraction incorporating libraries, arts and heritage in one venue.  Sitting high above the River Tyne close to The Sage Gateshead, the centre opened on the 16th December 2008 following a £1.2m transformation, funded by Gateshead Council, the European Regional Development fund and the heritage lottery fund.The interior of the Grade 1-listed church has been completely stripped out to return it as far as possible to its former state, and is open to the public with a programme of exhibitions and activities including a family history section focusing on the church and the nearby area.St. Mary’s Heritage Centre welcomes visitors to learn the history of Gateshead, and provides a spectacular venue for events, family history research and educational activities.

For more information about booking and prices please click     https://online.gateshead.gov.uk/EventTicketsOnline/pages/eventdetails.aspx?ky=2313

This exciting Tudor fashion Show includes a number of superb costumes I have designed and made worn by four models. They are accompanied by beautiful period music, a brief history of each historical figure and a talk about the design and construction of each costume. Our show includes King Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Katherine Howard and a fabulous gold gow for Queen Elizabeth I. Also included are two gowns for Mary Queen of Scots – a fabulous court gown and her elegant execution gown.  Hope to see you at the show!

It was a  very interesting, lively and informative lecture about the design/construction and inspiration for my  historical gowns,as well as a brief history of the people who wore them.

Integral to the event was a display of four costumes on mannequins with headdresses, fans, underwear and jewelry as well as a personal appearance by King Henry VIII.

Costumes for Elizabeth I, Mary Queen of Scots and Anne Boleyn were also included.

You can view an album of all the events on the Newcastle Fashion Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.502756853113329.1073741833.157890277599990&type=1

I have included some photographs of our event below I hope you enjoy viewing them.  The Newcastle Fashion Week pictures were taken by local photographer Lee Scullion.  [See image gallery at www.tudortalkandcatwalk.com]

Yesterday we presented two Tudor Fashion Shows for the Woodhorn Museum in Ashington in Northumberland.

Both shows proved to be extremely popular with other four hundred visitors attending our events.

Visitors at the show ranged from people in their eighties to quite tiny toddlers aged from about four – everyone really enjoyed it.

A visitor asked to have her picture taken with King Henry, she asked ‘Could I be your seventh wife ‘!

Paramjit  – Events Manager at the Woodhorn said she had received ‘ brilliant feedback ‘ and that ‘everyone really enjoyed the day’.

I would also like to thank my team Angela – Costume Assistant, Kevin – Sound Technician/Road Manager and Tracy – Narrator.  Not forgetting Helen, Laura, my husband Mick and son James for modelling – you were all brilliant.

Read about our events as part of the Bank Holiday celebrations in today’s copies of local newspapers ‘ The Journal ‘ and ‘ The Evening Chronicle’. See my beautiful model Laura on the cover as Anne Boleyn.

Due to popular demand I am also presenting a talk about the construction and design of my costumes at the Woodhorn on 2nd June 2013.

http://www.experiencewoodhorn.com/mothers-day-costume-talk/

Today I set up a display of four of my 16th inspired costumes in the superb Barons Hall in Raby Castle in Durham.

Built for the mighty dynasty of the Nevills, this great fortress stands proud and defiant, its history rolling back almost a thousand years.

It is beautiful  castle – scenes from the recent film  ‘Elizabeth the Golden Age were filmed at Raby.

http://www.rabycastle.com/News_and_Events/3890/5017/

The Baron’s Hall is a magnificent setting for my costumes – they look amazing arranged front of portraits of previous occupants dressed in their finery.

This small but stunning display will culminate in a ‘Tudor Fashion Show’ presented in the hall itself on 27th May 2013. The costumes in the display will be worn by live models as well as an additional number of costumes. The show will be accompanied by beautiful period music.

http://www.rabycastle.com/News_and_Events/3890/5018/

I would like to thank Rachel and Claire for all their help today with setting up the display.

We are really looking forward to presenting the shows on 27th May 2013.

Tudor Costume Design- Bring History to Life.

I will present a very interesting, lively and informative talk about the design and construction of her 16th Century inspired clothes as well as a brief history of the people who wore them.

A stunning display of four costumes will accompany my talk  – it will include gowns for Elizabeth I and Anne Boleyn as well as Tudor underwear and a Mary Queen of Scots execution gown. There will also be an appearance by King Henry VIII in full regalia.

Ticket price: £7 for talk or Joint ticket offer: Dressing the Stars exhibition and talk for £10.

Booking is advised – tickets for my talk are available from Woodhorn Museum who is hosting the event.

For further information about the ‘Dressing the Stars Exhibition’ and the ‘Mothers Day Costume talk’ please visit the Woodhorn website –  http://www.experiencewoodhorn.com/

You may like to listen to my interview with Sue Sweeney broadcast on Radio Newcastle – were chatting about my Mothers Day Costume Talk which to be presented at the Woodhorn Museum on 10th March at 2pm. My interview starts at 2.30.30.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0151krn

I hope you will treat your Mum to these special events.

We are looking forward to presenting a 16th Century inspired Historical Fashion Show with a Scottish flavour for the SWRI (Scotttish Women’s Rural Institute).

It will take place in the magnificent Queens Hall in Edinburgh at 7.30 pm on 5th September 2012 as part of the SWRI 27th National Conference.

The Queen’s Hall is a 900-capacity music venue, situated on Clerk Street in Edinburgh, Scotland. Originally built in 1823 as Hope Park Chapel, it was converted to its current role in 1979 and was formally opened by Queen Elizabeth I on 6 July 1979.

It now plays host to all types of live music, and presents approximately 200 performances every year. It is the year-round Edinburgh performance home of the Scottish Chamber Orchestra and also plays an important role for the Edinburgh International Festival, Edinburgh Festival Fringe and Edinburgh Jazz and Blues Festival.

My exciting show includes a number of superb costumes I have designed worn by four models. They are accompanied by beautiful period music, a brief history of each historical figure and a talk about the design and construction of each costume. Our show includes a James VI Court Costume, a beautiful Peacock Silk Court Gown for Mary Queen of Scots and concludes with Mary taking off her velvet robes to reveal her elegant execution gown.

We will start the event at 7.30 pm and there will be an interval for a raffle and refreshments.

Afterwards I will present a very interesting and informative question and answer session.

We look forward to presenting the show in such a wonderful venue and to meeting you all!